Cult Cicapair serum in a new version? Dr. Jart + Cicapair Serum - 2nd Generation Review with Jolse

Saturday, 4 January 2020

 Dr. Jart + Cicapair Serum - 2nd Generation Review

Dr. Jart+ Cicapair Serum is a K-beauty serum which you probably already know. The main secret of Dr.Jart+ Cicapair is Centella Asiatica, a soothing and calming ingredient for sensitive skin. Lately, Dr Jart released a new version of cult Cicapair serum. Does it have any sense to update a product that already is supposed to be ideal? Maybe there's still a room for improvement. Today, I'm testing Dr Jart+ Cicapair Serum 50ml - the reason why I mention the capacity this time is not an accident because there's a difference between 30ml and 50ml versions.


About Dr Jart+

Dr.Jart+ is a South Korean brand that doesn't need an introduction. Since my last post about Dr.Jart+ Cicapair Tiger Grass Color Correcting Treatment with SPF 30 from February 2018 lots of things has changed. Some of the changes are new lines, formulas and packaging. For example, Ceramidin looks way different than it used to. There are new series called Peptidin and Teatreetment. Sadly, the second one is available only in South Korea. But the most significant thing is how enormous Dr.Jart+ became. I feel like there's no country where you can't buy Dr. Jart+ products. Dr.Jart+ is quite a young brand. The first products got released in the year 2005. According to the Dr.Jart+ website, the brand is a collaboration between dermatologist Dr. Sung Jae Jung and architect Chin Wook Lee. If you think that dermatology and architecture don't go well together, then you're wrong! If you ever check photos or videos of Dr.Jart+ flagship stores, you'll be surprised how valuable is interior design for marketing purposes. The beauty industry is not only about technology, ingredients, policy (animal testing, supporting campaigns that have meaning for the society, etc.) or clear marketing. Nowadays, clients look at packaging design, Instagram profiles full of photos and videos, and the one unusual element - interior design.

 Dr. Jart + Cicapair Serum - 2nd Generation Review

But back to the Dr.Jart+, the company combined science and art to make advanced skincare products suitable for different skin problems. Cicapair series fits sensitive skin, and the main ingredient of this series is Centella Asiatica. Ceramidin is for dry and sensitive skin. This line is all about Ceramides - ingredients which occurs in the lipid barrier of the skin and protect the skin from dehydration. Water Fuse is a line which you might not know. This line is suitable for dry skin. There's one cleansing line that fit all skin types, and it's called Dermaclear. If you need to brighten your skin, then the V7 line is ideal for you. There are also products like BB Creams - funny enough, Dr.Jart+ BB Cream was the first BB Cream introduced to the American market. In 2015, Dr.Jart+ customers got scared a bit when the news about Estee Lauder investing in this brand got spread all around the internet. After three years, we can see that Estee Lauder investment in Dr.Jart+ wasn't as bad as people suspected.

If you're interested in flagship stores and interior design of Dr.Jart+ or other skincare brands then here's a Pinterest board for you. Maybe you'll find a new inspiration :)

Read the full review of Dr.Jart+ Cicapair Tiger Grass Color Correcting Treatment with SPF 30

 Dr. Jart + Cicapair Serum - 2nd Generation Review

Cicapair series

There are differences between Cicapair series depends on your location. Let's start with the complete range which you can find in South Korea. You shouldn't expect any cleansing products from Cicapair line since Dr.Jart+ has a separate cleansing line called Dermaclear. Cicapair line contains Toner, Calming Mist, Serum, Cream, Gel Cream, Sheet Mask, a product called Sleepair Ampoule-in Mask, Correcting Treatment in a cream called Recover and Cushion. What's different for the US and Europe? Not all the products are available for these two markets. In the US stores, you can buy Calming Mist, Serum, Cream, Gel Cream and Tiger Grass Correcting Treatment in cream. There's also a liquid version of the treatment called Camo Drops and a night mask. Europe has the same line as the US, but the release of products takes more time. There's no Calming Mist in Europe, and instead of a Night Mask, you'll find a Sheet Mask.

Why Centella?

The growth of K-beauty in Wester countries gave us many new ingredients and solutions for skin problems. One of them is Centella Asiatica. Gotu Kola, Tiger Grass, Asiatic Pennywort or just Centella. It has many different names, but the purpose is the same. The plant comes from Ayurveda, which is one of the oldest traditional medicine systems. When we think about it, we automatically think about India. Centella is a multi-tool in skincare products, but it's not a new substance. Gotu Kola is used for ages to cure skin conditions such as inflammation, eczema and wounds. It's a source of Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, Madecassic Acid and Asiaticoside. You can find all of them in skincare products. It's an anti-inflammatory ingredient which can help speed up the healing process of your skin. That's why even acne-prone skin likes it.

 Dr. Jart + Cicapair Serum - 2nd Generation Review

Dr.Jart+ Cicapair Serum Packaging

White, Green and Pink are the colours of Cicapair series. At the bottom of the paper box, you can see the pattern that reminds of a tiger scratch. It's not an accident, Centella Asiatica aka the main ingredient of Cicapair range is often named Tiger Grass. Inside the box, we can find green-white cardboard with information about ingredients used by Dr.Jart+ in Cicapair Serum such as Centella Rx, Cicabond and Jartbiome. If you know Korean, then you're lucky. If not, then there's always Google translate app and dictionary. The bottle seems to be glass, but what I love about Dr.Jart+ are applicators. The bottle tops made by the brand are usually hard plastic, so how to squeeze them if all you have is a pipette? Just open the bottle, and you'll see a button which helps with product application. Even if I enjoy this solution, it's not flawless. It's a bit noisy.

Centella RX

One of the solutions used by Dr.Jart+ is the use of Centella Rx. The blend of Centella Asiatica, Houttuynia Cordata, Achillea Millefolium Oil and Ilex Aquifolium should soothe your skin.

Cicabond

Cicabond is a soothing and repairing composition made out of Arabinogalactan (derived from Hedera Helix (Ivy) Extract), Calcium Chloride and Magnesium Sulfate.

Jartbiome

The name of the next ingredient is unique. Just mix Dr.Jart+ and Microbiome, and you've got the name of new Dr.Jart+ patent. Four different fermented ingredients make Jartbiome. This solution should make your skin stronger.

 Dr. Jart + Cicapair Serum - 2nd Generation Review

Texture

Dr.Jart+ Cicapair Serum has an impressive structure. I had to take photos of it because the bubbles in a pipette look so pretty. It's a liquid, lightweight serum which can feel a bit oily due to the presence of the yarrow and lavender oils. It absorbs quickly into the skin, and it leaves a smooth, non-sticky film on the surface.

The scent

It's a strong herbal scent that disappears in about 15 minutes. I can smell the Lavender Oil inside the product mixed with Tea Tree or Rosemary.

 Dr. Jart + Cicapair Serum - 2nd Generation Review

Dr.Jart+ Cicapair Serum - Ingredients

Cicapair Serum has 2 different versions - the previous one aka Gen 1st which you might find at sales, but soon it'll disappear. Currently, Dr.Jart+ is promoting 2nd generation! I want to compare ingredients in each version and share with you my opinion which one I like better or worse.

Cicapair Serum 1st generation

Water, Glycerin, Propanediol, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Dimethicone, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Carbomer, Tromethamine, Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract, Hydroxyacetophenone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Cyclohexasiloxane, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glyceryl Polyacrylate, Octyldodecanol, Adenosine, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Disodium EDTA, Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Extract, Dextrin, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil, Polyglutamic Acid, Lecithin, Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Peel Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil, Madecassoside, Aniba Rosaeodora (Rosewood) Wood Oil, Centella Asiatica Leaf Water, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Asiatic Acid, Asiaticoside, Alcohol, Madecassic Acid, Centella Asiatica Meristem Cell Culture, PEG-8, Caprylyl Glycol, PPG-1-PEG-9 Lauryl Glycol Ether, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Extract, Gentiana Lutea Root Extract, Achillea Millefolium Extract, Arnica Montana Flower Extract, Artemisia Absinthium Extract, Hedera Helix (Ivy) Leaf/Stem Extract, Sodium Glycerophosphate, Phytic Acid, Centella Asiatica Extract, Selaginella Lepidophylla Extract, Potassium Magnesium Aspartate, Citric Acid, Sodium Polyacrylate, Calcium Gluconate, Magnesium Gluconate, Potassium Sorbate, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Benzoate, Polysorbate 20

1st generation of Dr.Jart+ Serum had a longer formula so we can spot here ingredients which normally doesn't exist in 2nd Cicapair Serum generation.

Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol and 1,2-Hexanediol seem to be ingredients that exist everywhere. Glycerin and Butylene Glycol work as moisturizers. Propanediol is also a moisturizer but it has a positive meaning for preservatives since it can boost their effectiveness.

 Dr. Jart + Cicapair Serum - 2nd Generation Review

Even if Cicapair is a product where Centella should be the main star, Niacinamide is pretty high here. Niacinamide is a miracle ingredient, it does lots of great work. Having problems with dark spots? Try Niacinamide! Acne? Niacinamide will be good for you too! Problems with skin barrier? Solve it with Niacinamide! Wrinkles? You might want to try Niacinamide as well. Sensitive skin might find Niacinamide bit problematic when it's mixed with Vitamin C or used in the same routine as Vitamin C, but I can't deny Niacinamide is a skincare treasure! The next ingredient scares people off for a very surprising reason. Dimethicone is silicone, but it's not as bad as media creates it to be. Dimethicone is an emollient, that some people might find clogging, but it keeps your skin moist and protect it from dehydration. It has a positive effect on skin barrier by creating occlusion and it helps with scars. It can also smooth your skin visually. Cyclopentasiloxane and Cyclohexasiloxane have very similar properties. Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract should be quite known to you if you are following K-beauty skincare trends. In 2019 we had a massive number of new products inspired by Mugwort. Artemisia comes in many different forms. Artemisia Princeps is called Japanese Mugwort, but also Korean Mugwort. For me, this ingredient will always remind me of Korea because of "The Legend Of Dangun”. Artemisia has wide use in culinary, but does Artemisia work for the skin? We still have a lot to learn about Mugwort, we need more research to find out if Artemisia has a positive or negative meaning to the skin. It is told that it can be moisturizing, good for acne-prone skin but most sensitive skin.

 Dr. Jart + Cicapair Serum - 2nd Generation Review

Hydroxyacetophenone is an antioxidant. You probably know Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract as Neem. It's a plant typical for India, Sri Lanka or Pakistan. Neem comes from Ayurveda and it's told to have antiseptic, antibacterial and antifungal properties. We can also spot here Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract. Adenosine is another cool ingredient. It speeds up the healing process and repairs the skin barrier. It's great for inflamed skin and it might have a positive effect on skin elasticity. Skincare can be sweet sometimes. Cocoa is used to produce chocolate but in skincare products, Cocoa has a different use. Cocoa Extract is used as an antioxidant and moisturizer. Dextrin is a moisturizer. Lavender Oil is an essential oil and even if it has calming and relaxing effects, it has a bad side. Some people are allergic to essential oils. It's not the only oil here - Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Peel Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil and Aniba Rosaeodora (Rosewood) Wood Oil. Polyglutamic Acid is a moisturizer.

Cicapair - just like the name says - is based on "CICA" ingredients. All Cica ingredients are related to Centella. Madecassoside is an antioxidant with healing properties. It speeds up the healing process of the skin. Centella Asiatica Leaf Water, Asiatic Acid, Asiaticoside, Madecassic Acid, Centella Asiatica Extract and Centella Asiatica Meristem Cell Culture - they all have a good meaning for your skin barrier. If you have acne-prone skin then Cica ingredients can speed up the healing process of your skin. Houttuynia Cordata Extract is an antioxidant called Heartleaf. It might be not as popular as Centella, but Houttuynia started to gain acknowledge lately. It's a plant used in traditional medicine and kitchen, but in skincare, it's a soothing plant. Sunflower is another plant which we need to discuss. Usually, we see it in an oil form, but Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Extract is not an oil. Sunflower Oil is an emollient, while Extract is helping with the skin's condition. Gentiana Lutea Root Extract is a soothing extract just like Achillea Millefolium Extract. Mountain Arnica Extract is an ingredient which I use a lot on my skin. Arnica Montana Flower Extract is recommended for sensitive skin, especially if you have problems with visible blood vessels. Artemisia Absinthium Extract can remind you of Absinthe and that's a good connotation! Absinthe is an alcoholic beverage made from Artemisia Absinthium leaves. Many artists used to drink this liquor for inspiration, and I guess you might know that this drink was banned because it contains Thujone and this substance is psychoactive - currently, you can buy Absinthe in the majority of the countries, but norms for this drink are strict. I see that companies go for Artemisia Absinthium Extract because it might have an anti-aging effect on the skin.

1st generation of Cicapair serum has an interesting formula, but what we can find in 2nd generation?

 Dr. Jart + Cicapair Serum - 2nd Generation Review

Cicapair Serum 2nd generation

Water, Dipropylene Glycol, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Eryngium Maritimum Callus Culture Filtrate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Ilex Aquifolium (Holly) Leaf Extract, Achillea Millefolium Oil, Panthenol, Chondrus Crispus Extract, C12-14 Pareth-12, Saccharum Officinarum (Sugarcane) Extract, Streptococcus Thermophilus Ferment, Carbomer, Tromethamine, Madecassoside, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil, DNA, Disodium EDTA, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia (Bergamot) Fruit Oil, Asiaticoside, Dextrin, Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Extract, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Hedera Helix (Ivy) Extract, Asiatic Acid, Madecassic Acid, Calcium Chloride, Centella Asiatica Extract, Magnesium Sulfate

A huge part of the ingredients is the same as in the first version. It starts very similarly - Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol and Propanediol. Dipropylene Glycol is a new ingredient, but it's a solvent. Another new ingredient is Eryngium Maritimum Callus Culture Filtrate. Eryngium Maritimum is called Sea Holly, people believe that this plant can have anti-aging and moisturizing properties. I'm surprised that the 2nd generation has Panthenol! Pro-Vitamin B5 has a positive meaning to our skin, it's a moisturizing and soothing ingredient. Chondrus Crispus Extract is an extract from Red Seaweed. It shouldn't surprise us that Seaweed extracts are moisturizing and soothing. Saccharum Officinarum (Sugar Cane) Extract has moisturizing properties. Saccharum Officinarum is used to produce sugar and this species is typical for New Guinea. It has other property which you might like, I know Sugar Cane mostly as a brightening ingredient. Ferments in skincare are popular lately, so Streptococcus Thermophilus Ferment is not a surprise. Fermented ingredients are great to strengthen your skin and moisturize them, but sometimes conditions like so-called "fungal acne" don't go well with fermented ingredients. But what does DNA do here? DNA stands for Deoxyribonucleic Acid and it does sound familiar. It is used as a skin conditioning agent.

If you were hoping that 2nd generation of Cicapair Serum is free from essential oils then I'll disappoint you with Citrus Aurantium Bergamia (Bergamot) Fruit Oil (and Lavender Oil). I find this formula more attractive, but it has some flaws.

 Dr. Jart + Cicapair Serum - 2nd Generation Review

How does the Dr.Jart+ Cicapair Serum work?

I know Cicapair series well and every time Dr.Jart+ releases new products I feel like I won't get astonished. Guess what? I was wrong! The solution used by the brand to hide the button in the applicator is clever. If you travel a lot - you need it. I guess almost all Dr.Jart+ products with pipettes use are based on this idea - Peptidin series, V7 series, only Tiger Grass colour correcting treatment (available in the US and Europe, I'm not sure how about other countries) is based on a different solution. The serum might feel a bit oily, but it's not! It's a solution that can be used by all skin types. It gets absorbed by the skin quickly. I had some situations when my skin got irritated by AHA treatment and Gluconolactone cream (used in different routines), Dr.Jart+ Cicapair Serum helped me with this irritation of the skin. Still, if you're sensitive to essential oils I recommend to be careful with this solution and patch test it first. I won't lie to you that Cicapair Serum is ideal. It's not. I can't use it twice a day or every day - I just need to switch it with other serums, depends on my skin condition because if my skin is not irritated and dehydrated - it keeps clogging me aka. it feels like playing Pokemons on my face - A WILD PIMPLE APPEARED! Hopefully, it's not a big pimple but a small whitehead, but removing it can give you a scar. Hopefully, Dr.Jart+ Cicapair Serum is good in making your skin barrier stronger and boosting the healing process. To sum up, if your skin is acne-prone or oily - do patch tests (everyone should do them), then test it on your face and try to find a solution like using it only when you need it or use it once a day. If your skin is sensitive - testing is a must and then if essential oils are not a problem - using it twice a day should work. Other skin types shouldn't have problems with using it twice a day.

 Dr. Jart + Cicapair Serum - 2nd Generation Review

Dr.Jart+ Cicapair Serum - Price & Where to get it?

Dr.Jart+ Cicapair Serum can be found on Jolse in two different versions - 50ml version (the one I've been testing) costs $28.78, while 30 ml version costs $24 and it seems to be a 1st gen series.

Overall, Dr.Jart+ Cicapair Serum gave me mixed feelings, but I can't say it's a bad serum, because I had moments when this serum saved my skin. Do you know Cicapair series? Have you ever tried any Dr.Jart+ product?

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*** This post was made in collaboration with Jolseeven though it still shows my personal opinion on the topic and product**

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