Bubble mask or bubble cleanser? Neogen Dermalogy Canadian Clay Pore Cleanser Review

Tuesday 17 July 2018

Neogen Dermalogy Canadian Clay Pore Cleanser bubble mask cleanser k-beauty

The product I want to show you today is a product I met before by accident. It was January 2017 when I went to one local shop and found Neogen products - I literally got everything that was available which was Glacial Pore Gel, WYT Mask and... Neogen Dermalogy Canadian Clay Pore Cleanser. Why there was no review of this product? I love herbs and focusing on ingredients in a review was important for me but when you'll see what this mask can offer you, I guess you'll be overwhelmed just like I was with the number of amazing ingredients. Let's take a cup of tea or maybe two and study the product.

Clay Cleanser or Mask?

The biggest question about this product is if it's a cleanser or a clay mask? I would say both because it not only removes sebum from the surface of the skin and cleanses the pores but you also have to leave it on the skin for a couple minutes. It can remind you of bubbly masks - one of the most trendy k-beauty products in 2016/2017 or a foaming cleanser but it's not a product which I would use every day like a foaming cleanser so I keep using this product as a mask or a special cleansing treatment. 

What's inside the product?

This product is a long ride full of ingredients - mostly natural extract. I've decided to focus on it all because the formula is unique and very interesting - especially if you're interested in natural herbs and traditional medicine. But this time I'll highlight the most interesting ones. 

Water, Kaolin, Glycerin, Stearic Acid, Myristic Acid, Methyl Perfluoroisobutyl Ether, Potassium Hydroxide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Bentonite, Canadian Colloidal Clay, Carbonated Water, Butylene Glycol, Coptis Chinensis Root Extract, Saccharum Officinarum (Sugar Cane) Extract, Maltose  Carbon Dioxide, Sodium HyaluronateAllantoin, Beta-Glucan, Aristotelia Chilensis Fruit Extract, Gardenia Blue Color, Oldenlandia Diffusa Extract, Polygonum Multiflorum Root Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Solanum Melongena (Eggplant) Fruit Extract, Cassia Obtusifolia Seed Extract, Porphyra Tenera Extract, Fagus Sylvatica Seed Extract, Dictyopteris Membranacea Extract , Allium Sativum (Garlic) Bulb Extract, Prunus Mume Fruit Extract, Polygonum Fagopyrum (Buckwheat) Seed Extract, Rubus Coreanus Fruit Extract, Mirabilis Jalapa Seed Extract, Sepia, Charcoal Powder, Aronia Melanocarpa Fruit Extract, Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract, Sambucus Nigra Fruit Extract, Morus Alba Fruit Extract, Rhus Semialata Gall Extract, Cinnamomum Cassia Bark Extract, Rose Extract, Inonotus Obliquus (Mushroom) Extract, Anona Cherimolia Fruit Extract, Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Extract, Coffea Arabica Fruit Extract, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Fruit Extract , Corthellus Shiitake (Mushroom) Extract, Piper Nigrum (Pepper) Seed Extract, Black Sugar Extract , Passiflora Edulis Fruit Extract, Psidium Guajava Fruit Extract, Chrysanthemum Sibiricum Extract, Swiftlet Nest Extract, Honey Extract, Sarcodon Aspratus Extract, Laminaria Japonica Extract, Angelica Gigas Root Extract, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Lepidium Meyenii Root Extract, Malva Sylvestris (Mallow) Extract, Garcinia Mangostana Peel Extract, Mangifera Indica (Mango) Fruit Extract, Malt Extract, Chaenomeles Sinensis Fruit Extract, Musa Sapientum (Banana) Fruit Extract, Caulerpa Lentillifera Extract, Ledebouriella Seseloides Root Extract, Angelica Dahurica Root Extract, Atractyloides Japonica Rhizome Extract, Lilium Tigrinum Extract, Ribes Nigrum (Black Currant) Fruit Extract, Cornus Officinalis Fruit Extract, Hippophae Rhamnoides Extract, Achillea Millefolium Extract, Opuntia Ficus-Indica Extract, Acer Saccharum (Sugar Maple) Extract, Pinus Densiflora Extract, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Extract, Argania Spinosa Kernel Extract, Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Extract, Angelica Archangelica Root Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Forsythia Suspensa Fruit Extract, Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Flower Extract, Schizandra Chinensis Fruit Extract, Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract, Hibiscus Esculentus Fruit Extract, Laurus Nobilis Leaf Extract, Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Leaf Extract, Citrus Junos Fruit Extract, Lithospermum Erythrorhizon Root Extract, Magnolia Liliflora Flower Extract , Paeonia Lactiflora Root Extract, Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract, Acorus Calamus Root Extract, Cnidium Officinale Root Extract, Asparagus Cochinchinensis Root Extract, Averrhoa Carambola Fruit Extract, Uncaria Tomentosa Extract, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Fruit Extract, Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract, Salicornia Herbacea Extract, Plumeria Rubra Flower Extract, Hydrolyzed Coral, Amber Extract, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Agaricus Blazei Extract, Tremella Fuciformis (Mushroom) Extract, Disodium EDTA, Fragrance

Give me the Clay!

The base of this mask is Water and White Clay also known as Chinese clay. It's the most delicate clay that should fit every skin type. It's used in cleansing products because it removes dirt and sebum well. But this cleanser is not a normal cleanser or a mask - it's like a bubble mask but the bubbles are very delicate. How is it possible? It's all because of Methyl Perfluoroisobutyl Ether. Potassium Hydroxide is a substance used in limited concentration as a pH adjuster. Bentonite is also called Soap Clay, it makes the texture, it helps in the exfoliation process but it's also a miracle product for acne-prone and oily skin because it removes the dirt and oil better than white clay. Canadian Colloidal Clay is a star ingredient here, this type of Clay is full of minerals such as iron and magnesium. Maltose and Sodium Hyaluronate are another humectants on the list, Sodium Hyaluronate can have positive on the acne-prone skin in speeding up the healing process and brightening the post-acne scars. Allantoin is one of my favourite moisturizing ingredients another moisturizer is Beta-Glucan but this one is positive for a sensitive skin and people with allergies. 

Let's focus on herbs

The most interesting part for me here are herbal extracts. Don't be surprised because a huge number of them are related to Traditional Chinese Medicine or Hanbang - Traditional Korean Medicine. I won't mention all of them but some that seem to be the most interesting. First herbal extract on the list is Coptis Chinensis Root Extract also known as Huang Lian. It is told that this herb can be helpful for skin problems such as acne, eczema or psoriasis. Saccharum Officinarum (Sugar Cane) Extract - another moisturizer but this one is good for acne-prone skin and it promotes collagen synthesis. Aristotelia Chilensis Fruit Extract is also called Maqui Berry, it is told that this fruit is an antioxidant with anti-inflammatory properties. Polygonum Multiflorum Root Extract is an antioxidant with brightening effects. He Shou Wu - because that's how this herb is called should help with pigmentation.  The next extract is one of my favourites - Centella Asiatica Extract also known as Gotu Kola or Tiger Grass. A source of vitamins A, C and E and a powerful antioxidant that works for every skin type and many different skin conditions. Porphyra Tenera Extract is an ingredient which you might already know because it's nothing else than nori seaweed - an edible seaweed. 

Buckwheat, a bit of wine and Elderberry?

Polygonum Fagopyrum (Buckwheat) Seed Extract is the most surprising extract for me. Buckwheat is not a wheat but a pseudocereal that can be also called Japanese Buckwheat and it actually came from Asia but in a Slavic kitchen, it's a popular edible plant. If you watch Korean Dramas then you might remember Buckwheat Flowers, if you take an extract from Buckwheat then you'll get a mixture of vitamins A and E. This substance is told to be an antioxidant and detox ingredient. Rubus Coreanus Fruit Extract also known as Bokbunja or Korean Black Raspberry is another interesting one. The fruit is normally used in wine production and it's considered as herbal medicine but it's also an antioxidant with anti-inflammatory properties but it's mostly used in a skin care for the anti-ageing properties. Another surprising ingredient here is Sambucus Nigra Fruit Extract an Elderberry - a precious ingredient for sensitive skin. It regenerates and cleanses the skin well. 

The power of Mushrooms

When I started to blog, I was talking about Chaga Mushroom hidden here under the name Inonotus Obliquus (Mushroom) Extract. It's a source of Vitamin E and B but it also contains Zinc which is positive for acne-prone skin. Чага is an ingredient typical to Russia (Siberia region) and Finland. Corthellus Shiitake (Mushroom) Extract is another mushroom here which is full of minerals and vitamins such as vitamin D, Selenium, Zinc and Niacin. What does that mean? This extract is ideal for acne-prone skin and in general for a skin condition. If you need more mushrooms then there's another ingredient for you Sarcodon Aspratus Extract also known as Scaly Hedgehog. In Korea, this fungus is used as the main ingredient of mushroom tea. It's an antioxidant with soothing properties, ideal for the allergic skin. The other interesting one is Tremella Fuciformis (Mushroom) Extract, a mushroom that looks like a Jelly and is an edible mushroom which you can find in China for example. This one contains Vitamin D and it moisturizes the skin well. It's an anti-aging ingredient told to be a substitute for hyaluronic acid. 

The weirdest of them all? Swiftlet Nest Extract

I always thought that I won't ever try Swiftlet Nest Extract but actually this product contains it. If you don't know Swiftlet Nest is an edible birds nest made of bird's saliva. We have to remember that birds nests are still luxurious, for ages they were a food reserved only for Emperors in China. Why did this ingredient make into skin care? Swiftlet Nest contains EGF - Epidermal Growth Factor which stimulates cell growth and increases collagen production. The Amber Extract which you can see here too isn't as weird but it's more popular as a conditioning ingredient in hair product

Where are the flowers?

But it's not only all about herbs! This product wouldn't exist without floral extracts. Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract also known as Sacred Lotus is a strong moisturizer but also an ingredient with anti-bacterial properties. It's soothing but it also speeds up the healing process. Lotus is followed by Magnolia Liliflora Flower Extract, which has a positive meaning on the mature and young skin. It contains antibacterial properties but it prevents wrinkles too. If there's magnolia then all we need to fill this composition we need Paeonia Lactiflora Root Extract, a Peony Extract that protects the skin but it's also a whitening extract. 

Witch Hazel, Ginseng and natural colourants?

I'm sure you know Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Leaf Extract if you have acne-prone skin. It's an antibacterial and antiseptic ingredient which helps with blood circulation and promotes wound healing. Panax Ginseng Root Extract is probably my favourite. It's quite low in the formula but still, it would be surprising if this product would lack it. It's another revitalizing antioxidant good especially for ageing skin because of its properties. We also need to mention that what's great about this product is a use of natural colourants such as Gardenia Blue Color

Is it as perfect as it seems to be?

But it's not like this product has only amazing herbal ingredients. There are some ingredients that skin might not like. In general, if you're skin is sensitive then herbal extract can be potential allergens and I'm sure you already remember to do patch tests before you use any product. There are two ingredients that can be comedogenic Myristic Acid and Stearic Acid. They are both emollients but somehow I didn't react to them this time - I assume, it's because I don't leave them on my skin for a long time and I don't use the product every day, but comedogenic reactions are a personal thing. But there are ingredients that lots of people don't like - Fragrance or Disodium EDTA which is a preservative that shouldn't be used on fresh wounds and if you take antibiotics. 

How does it work for me?

It's not my first meeting with this product. I used it before and since back then I fell in love with it. It's one of the bubble mask/cleanser product which you can use with a cleansing brush but the bubbles aren't heavy, they are very delicate. As I said I had neither comedogenic nor allergic reactions but that's a personal thing. It doesn't make lots of mess which is something unique for a clay mask and I can't really smell the scent. The only thing that can be a bit annoying if you're a perfectionist is closing - I usually have not enough strength to close it well and make it look like every edge of the product is in one line. I used it alone and with a brush - the brush helps you cleanse the pores better but if your skin is sensitive be gentle, use a silicone brush or don't use a brush at all because rubbing the skin with the brush can make it reacts badly. If it comes to smell - it's herbal and neutral. You barely can smell it. The packaging contains also a plastic cap which is used to protect the mask and keep the product fresh.

What's the difference between Neogen Dermalogy Canadian Clay Cleanser and Neogen Code 9 Glacial Magic Pore Pack?

I guess some of you will think it's the same product but it isn't. It's not even the same line. Even if we always call Neogen products Neogen the 2nd part of the name is very important. Neogen has 4 different lines - the most basic one called Neogen without any 2nd part of the name which is based on natural ingredients and modern technologies. Another line is Neogen Code9 which is the more luxurious line and products from this line cost more and then Neogen Dermalogy which is a brand inspired by Code9 - also based on great technologies but it's more affordable one. And last but not least - Neogen Agecure which is a line focus on anti-anging technologies like peptides. There's also a line called WYT but I'll cover it more in future. As you can see both versions are going to be different but also very similar and most of the ingredients are like copy-paste but there are some small differences between the two of these versions. There are ingredients that we can find only in Dermalogy version: 
Ledebouriella Seseloides Root Extract, Sepia, Nelumbo Nucifera Germ Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Amber Extract, Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Leaf Extract, Paeonia Lactiflora Root Extract, Magnolia Liliflora Flower Extract
And ingredients found only in Code9 version: 
Saposhnikovia Divaricata Root Extract, Magnolia Liliflora Bud Extract, Nelumbium Speciosum Flower Extract, Cucurbita Pepo (Pumpkin) Fruit Extract, Panax Ginseng Extract, Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Extract, Cuttlefish Extract, Paeonia Lactiflora Bark Extract
Still similar? Yes, but if you use an extract of the entire plant vs extract from the root the change can be huge. The use of the products is also similar but they are not the same products. 

Pore gel?

There's also a glacial pore gel which I've been using for some time now and I'll prepare the review about it in the future. 

Where can you get it and is it worth it?

This product costs $27 for 120g on Sokoglam. I think this product is worth a try, especially on oily skin. If you want to know where's the difference between Code9 and Dermalogy versions - Code9 version is also told to cost $27 for 120g.

What do you think about this product? Have you ever tried it? What's your favourite Neogen product?

*** This post was made in collaboration with Neogen, even though it still shows my personal opinion on the topic and product***

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