Tone-up sunscreens are tricky, you can love them or hate them. They can be a good way to avoid using too many layers of makeup during summer. I'm a fan of good tone-up cream but I wasn't expecting much from medicube PDRN Pink Tone Up Sun Cream. It's not even the middle of sunscreen season and I already found a product which I enjoy so much that I almost ended the entire tube.
What's UV?
UV stands for Ultraviolet. It's nothing else but the selected range of frequencies of the electromagnetic spectrum. UV rays are invisible to humans, but that doesn't mean they don't exist. Each type of UV—UVA, UVB, and UVC—has different wavelengths and properties.
UVA, UVB and UVC - what do each of them do and where can you meet them?
I'm sure you know about UVA and UVB, but UVC or the difference between UVA2 and UVA1? Let's start from the shortest wavelengths - UVC (100nm - 280nm) exist in space and is absorbed by the ozone layer, it can kill bacteria that's why on Earth you can find it in germicidal lamps - you might ask me, but these lamps are usually visible to a human - it's because they are made in a way that makes them safe for you and other people - you shouldn't enter the room when the UV lamp is on and make people aware that the lamp is on we add other substances so the lamp has a blue/purple colour when it's on. This technology is used for example at labs and hospitals.
We all remember UVB (280nm –315nm) because it is said that B in UVB stands for BURN. Indeed, this UV length is responsible for sunburns, but it also helps synthesise Vitamin D - a vitamin which we all need because lack of it can lead to osteoporosis. UVB is focused on the epidermis aka the outer layer of the skin while UVA (315nm –400nm) can penetrate through the epidermis and dermis so it penetrates your skin deeper. A in its name stands for Aging. The bad news is that UVA can penetrate glass, and both UVA and UVB cause lots of damage including skin cancer and oxidative stress.
Should I wear sunscreen at home?
We already know that UVA penetrates through the glass so do we need to use sunscreen at home? Yes, especially if you spend lots of time working near the window then it's better to put on a layer of sunscreen in the morning and have any type of protection at home as well. But you can also use window films to reduce the risk. The choice is left to you, what I do is keep my blinds on the window during the entire morning and when the sun is not that intense because my windows are situated on the Eastern side the light usually starts to fade afternoon - usually by afternoon I already have sunscreen on, few times reapplied.
What's the difference between mineral and chemical sunscreen?
It depends on which side we look at this topic. Mineral sunscreens are sunscreens that don't contain any carbon atoms - this automatically makes them inorganic sunscreens. Chemical sunscreens contain carbon atoms, which makes them organic substances. The main difference is that mineral sunscreen usually leaves a white cast, and it's better if we use both Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide for a broad spectrum of UV protection. Chemical sunscreens don't leave a white cast, and they have more sophisticated formulas. Both are amazing, in some cases, PIH (hyperpigmentation), mineral sunscreens, and natural pigments can make a good layer of protection from UV rays.
Sunscreen reapplication
The majority of brands recommend reapplying sunscreen every 2-3 hours. The reason behind this is simple - we are active, we are sweating, we wear clothes or we touch our faces. All these things can remove a layer of sunscreen from the skin. We react differently to the same amount of UV radiation - my skin might react badly to 5 minutes of sun without protection, and my skin might need 10 more minutes. That's why on average we say that reapplying sunscreen every 2-3 hours is the best.
What's the difference between regular sunscreen and toning sunscreen?
Regular sunscreens might leave a white cast if they are based on mineral sunscreen agents like titanium dioxide or zinc oxide in the non-nano version. Nanoparticles are usually better if you don't want to have a white layer on the skin. The situation is different if it comes to chemical sunscreens, they usually don't leave a white cast, but Tinosorbs might leave delicate film that makes your skin look more gray if you have warm-toned skin. Tone-up sunscreens are a mix of sunscreen and correcting primers, they have a delicate colour base that helps you neutralize shades that aren't welcome on your skin. We use tone-up products according to the colour wheel, two years ago I made a post about colour-correcting for Picky
Read more: Nivea UV Deep Protect & Care Tone-up Essence
Colour correcting can be used for makeup and hair care. Purple shampoos used by blondes are also based on colour theory - we use purple tones to neutralize yellow tones. Same with makeup, purple neutralizes yellow and usually purple or lilac tones are used for skin brightening. Green colour used by for example Dr.Jart+ Cicapair Tiger Grass Color Correcting Treatment is a good choice if you have acne or redness on the skin and you want to balance it. Pink tones should cancel some green and blue tones - this combo might be great for people with visible veins on the skin. I mostly go for purple or green if it comes to sunscreens, if it comes to makeup - after some treatments you might want to use yellow colour correction to make bruises less visible.
Read more: Dr.Jart+ Cicapair Tiger Grass Color Correcting Treatment with SPF 30
Meet the brand: Medicube
Medicube is one of the most popular K-beauty brands lately. Medicube was founded in 2016 and it's a sister brand to APRILSKIN. Medicube works with dermatologists and focuses on clinical results to provide products that target certain skin concerns. I feel like Medicube became the most popular after the release of the AGE-R device and Collagen Night Wrapping Mask. Medicube is focused on safe formulas and sustainability. The products are not only developed to help your skin, but the idea of Medicube products is to change your life by restoring your confidence and improving your quality of life which we usually connect to appearance.
medicube PDRN Pink Tone Up Sun Cream - Packaging
medicube PDRN Pink Tone Up Sun Cream comes in a white paper box with pink and black details. Once you open it, you can see a white tube with similar colours. The tube itself is quite soft, so it's easy to get the product outside. I love that medicube added such a slim applicator since you won't get too much of the formula outside. The only problem with this packaging is that you can't recycle it.
medicube PDRN Pink Tone Up Sun Cream - Texture & Scent
When you look at the name you can guess that medicube PDRN Pink Tone Up Sun Cream is a cream with pink tint. It has a delicate creamy scent, but there's no artificial scent or essential oil, so I believe it comes naturally with the formula.
medicube PDRN Pink Tone Up Sun Cream - SPF & PA
Sadly, medicube didn't share more information about PDRN Pink Tone Up Sun Cream than what we got on the packaging. medicube PDRN Pink Tone Up Sun Cream has SPF 50 and PA++++.
medicube PDRN Pink Tone Up Sun Cream - Ingredients
Water, Isononyl Isononanoate, Dipropylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Titanium Dioxide, Dibutyl Adipate, Diisopropyl Sebacate, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Methyl Trimethicone, Niacinamide, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, Sorbitan Isostearate, Behenyl Alcohol, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, C13-15 Alkane, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Glycerin, Silica, Decyl Glucoside, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Polyacrylate-13, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Fragrance, Sodium Polyacrylate, Tromethamine, Alumina, Stearic Acid, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose Stearoxy Ether, Adenosine, Disodium EDTA, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Aluminum Hydroxide, Cyanocobalamin, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Xanthan Gum, t-Butyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Sodium Hyaluronate, Collagen Extract, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Glutathione, Hyaluronic Acid, Pentylene Glycol, Potassium Hyaluronate, Sodium DNA (0.05 ppb)
Water hides in cosmetic products under names such as Aqua or Eau. It's a solvent, but it's not your regular drinking water. Water in skin care needs to fit some standards. It should be clean and free from minerals, microorganisms, or other substances. Usually, water makes up the majority of the product's content. Isononyl Isononanoate is a dry emollient that prevents skin dehydration. It is widely used in the beauty industry because it makes product application easier. It also helps brush hair and has anti-static properties. It makes pigments more intensive. It leaves a delicate film on the skin and hair. Dipropylene Glycol is a solvent with moisturizing properties.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is a combination of coconut oil and glycerin. It's a notable emollient that is quite common in skincare. It leaves a protective film on the surface of the epidermis to save your cutis from dehydration. Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride has a significant role in skin care products - it makes the application process effortless. Some people might experience pore-clogging after using Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, but pore-clogging and skin reactions to ingredients are individual. What works for you might not work for someone else. Titanium Dioxide (Ci 77891) is a mineral (or physical) sunscreen agent. It protects your skin from UVB and UVA II radiation and might cover some lower waves in the UVA I spectrum. It has a typical white colour visible on the skin, unless it's a nano version then this white tint might not be visible at all. This ingredient has a second task - it works as a pigment. Titanium Dioxide works perfectly for skin that needs visible protection like skin with melasma, nice that white pigment works as a barrier or protective film on the skin. It has one additional task, it makes products stay fresh a bit longer.
Dibutyl Adipate is an oily emollient. This oil-soluble ingredient dissolves in oils. It creates a hydrating film on the surface of the skin to prevent the skin from dehydration. You can see it in sunscreens as a solvent. Diisopropyl Sebacate is an emollient common in sunscreens since it helps create a nice formula, it's also common in lip products. Ethylhexyl Triazone or Uvinul T 150 is a sun-protecting agent. It covers the UVB range (280-320nm). Its peak is at 314 nm. Methyl Trimethicone is a volatile silicone, a type of silicone that evaporates right after product application. It works as a solvent in the products. Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3 - a vitamin soluble in water. It helps with problems like wrinkles, acne, skin texture, and enlarged pores and promotes collagen synthesis. Niacinamide makes the skin barrier stronger. It might be handy in cellulite treatments. Do you want to fight pigmentation or uneven skin? Try to mix niacinamide with Kojic Acid, Arbutin, Vitamin C, Tranexamic Acid or Retinol.
Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine is quite a hard name to remember, that's why you can find people talking about this ingredient by calling it Tinosorb S. It's one of the newer types of sunscreen agents and one of the strongest ones. It's a chemical sunscreen that protects skin from UVA (315-400 nm) & UVB (280-315 nm), and its peak is high. It's a stable sunscreen that works with other sun-protecting substances to protect their early photodegradation. Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol sounds a bit like a magic spell. You might know it as a Tinosorb M - a new generation of sun-protecting agents. Tinosorb M is a broad-spectrum filter since it covers UVA and UVB wavelengths (280-400nm). It's a so-called hybrid sunscreen agent because it's between mineral and chemical sunscreen agents. It might leave some white cast. Sorbitan Isostearate is an emulsifier.
Behenyl Alcohol might sound scary, but it's a fatty alcohol. This type of alcohol is beneficial for the skin since it works as an emollient and helps with the texture of the product. Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate or Uvinul A Plus is a sun-protecting agent. It covers the UVA range (320-400 nm), and its peak of protection is 354 nm. Polymethylsilsesquioxane is a silicone that protects your skin from dehydration by creating a film on the surface of the skin. Silicones have a positive meaning to your skin - they make products easier to spread, make the formula more elegant and even protect skin and hair. Potassium Cetyl Phosphate is a surfactant and emulsifier for oil-in-water formulas. Potassium Cetyl Phosphate is quite common in SPF formulas since it makes sunscreen more water-resistant. C13-15 Alkane is an emollient derived from sugar cane.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic solvent and preservative. It protects products from microorganisms by boosting other preservatives. At the same time, it can moisturize the skin and has no unpleasant effects on the epidermis. Caprylyl Glycol is an oily emollient and humectant that leaves a moisturizing film on the skin's surface. Glycerin or Glycerol is a humectant. Depending on the product, its origin can be natural or synthetic. It protects TEWL (transepidermal water loss), which naturally occurs in the skin. It's one of the NMFs and a natural moisturizing factor. It's practical in hair care. Glycerin won't clog your skin or irritate it—just the opposite—it protects your skin from irritation. Silica is a mineral-natural ingredient. It's popular in makeup and skincare. It can absorb sebum or thicken the texture.
Decyl Glucoside is a non-ionic surfactant that works as an emulsifier and thickener. Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate is a synthetic polymer. It makes emulsions more stable. Polyacrylate-13 is a polymer that creates a film on the skin and hair to prevent water loss. Polyhydroxystearic Acid is a dispersing agent for mineral sunscreens and pigments. It makes the white cast less visible. It can work as a thickener. Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic polymer and quite a large molecule. It works as a thickener and emulsion stabiliser. Fragrance (Parfum) is a scent composition. It can cause allergic reactions. Sodium Polyacrylate is a thickener with a strong ability to absorb water. It helps with texture and it can create a film on the skin to prevent TEWL (transepidermal water loss).
Tromethamine is a synthetic pH adjuster. Alumina or Aluminum Oxide absorbs sebum and prevents your makeup from caking. It's also a thickener. Stearic Acid is a fatty acid that works as an emollient and emulsifier. Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is an emollient. It's a synthetic substitute for squalane. It leaves a delicate film on the skin, it prevents skin from dehydration. Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer is a synthetic powder that absorbs sebum. You can usually find it in makeup for its flawless finishing. Not every oily skin will enjoy it. Ethylhexylglycerin is a preservative with subtle moisturizing and antimicrobial properties. Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose Stearoxy Ether is a thickener.
Adenosine naturally occurs in the skin. One of the roles of adenosine in our bodies is that of neurotransmitter. In skin care, we use adenosine for its anti-wrinkle properties. Adenosine is an anti-inflammatory ingredient. It can boost collagen production. At the same time, it speeds up the healing process. Adenosine can have positive effects on reducing redness. In hair care, adenosine can help with hair loss. Disodium EDTA neutralizes metal ions in the formula to keep products fresh. Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate is an emulsifier. Aluminum Hydroxide or CI 77002 is a white pigment and emollient. It's used in antiperspirants since it absorbs sweat and sebum. It's also a coating ingredient for UV-protecting ingredients.
Cyanocobalamin is nothing else than vitamin B12. It's a water-soluble antioxidant. It's an ingredient which you can find in products for wrinkles and pigmentation since this vitamin can help with both. Vitamin B12 is important for hair as well - it might help with dandruff, hair loss and hair breakage. Ethylhexyl Palmitate is an oily emollient that provides a satin-like film on the skin. It makes brushing your hair easier. Triethoxycaprylylsilane is a silicone used to coat sunscreens and pigments. It makes the product easier to spread. Xanthan Gum is a polysaccharide that works as a thickener. t-Butyl Alcohol is a solvent with a scent similar to camphor. It's common in perfumes. Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer is a humectant.
Sodium Hyaluronate or sodium salt of hyaluronic acid. It's a form of hyaluronic acid and naturally occurs in the skin. Sodium Hyaluronate has strong water-binding properties. Sodium hyaluronate combined with elastin and collagen is like a scaffolding for the skin. It has hydrating properties and leaves a hydrating film on the skin, but sodium hyaluronate prevents skincare products from drying. Collagen Extract leaves a film on the surface of the skin. It's an ingredient that naturally occurs in our skin. Collagen can't penetrate your skin, but it makes your skin barrier stronger and can make wrinkles less visible.
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid is a low-weight humectant. We have to remember that not every molecule can get through the skin surface and lower molecule HA can penetrate the skin deeper and bring moisture inside the skin. It's a natural polymer that binds water in the skin to prevent TEWL (transepidermal water loss). Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate is a smaller version of sodium hyaluronate. ULMW Hyaluronic Acid (ultra-low molecular weight HA) penetrates skin more easily than Hyaluronic Acid. It's a good moisturizer that prevents skin from dehydration. It works in deeper layers of the skin. Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate is a big molecule related to hyaluronic acid. It leaves a moisturizing film on the surface of the skin.
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate is related to sodium hyaluronate. It boosts moisture in the skin and elasticity. It helps prevent skin from TEWL (transepidermal water loss). Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer is related to sodium hyaluronate. It's a good moisturizer. Glutathione is an antioxidant that naturally occurs in the skin. It's a tripeptide made out of glutamic acid, glycine and cysteine. It helps with free radical damage and it inhibits melanin which makes it a powerful ingredient to treat pigmentation. Because of the sulfur amount in glutathione, you can use it to moderate sebum production in acne-prone and oily skin types. It speeds up the skin healing process and supports vitamin C and vitamin E, so it's good to use it with both these ingredients.
Hyaluronic Acid is an ingredient loved by everyone! Hyaluronic acid naturally occurs in the skin. It's a glycosaminoglycan or GAG. What does that mean? It's a long polysaccharide - nothing else than sugar, and we all know what sugars do in the skin. It's not different from Hyaluronic Acid - it acts like a humectant. One HA molecule is supposed to hold up to 1000x heavier molecules than this one single HA molecule. Hyaluronic acid can have different molecular weights - smaller molecules are usually more hydrating than bigger ones.
Pentylene Glycol is mostly a solvent and stabilizer, but it has great moisturizing properties. Potassium Hyaluronate is a hydrophilic ingredient that prevents TEWL (transepidermal water loss). It's a synthetic humectant. Sodium DNA (0.05 ppb) is nothing else than popular lately PDRN. Sodium DNA stands for sodium deoxyribonucleate. It's an ingredient usually derived from fish DNA or as some people say "from fish sperm". This ingredient is supposed to be great for skin repair and regeneration. It helps with the moisture of the skin as well. Just remember that Sodium DNA in skincare won't fully work as PDRN injections, even if this ingredient looks very promising.
How does medicube PDRN Pink Tone Up Sun Cream work?
I wasn't positive about this product at first for a few reasons. My first concern was the hype around the brand. If you read some of my previous posts or if you follow me on Instagram you might know that I'm not a big fan of brands that are hyped because usually there's a huge marketing campaign behind that. I do openly admit that my work is related to marketing analysis in the beauty industry, but what I advise at work is based on data, while here I can share with you my personal feelings and what I would choose and if it has any sense choosing.
So why did I decide to give medicube a chance? medicube PDRN Pink Tone Up Sun Cream is not the only medicube product I'm testing, I bought some with my own money few more products to see if the hype is worth it, because big marketing spending might not mean that the product is overhyped, sometimes hype isn't accidental. The other problem was tint - I wasn't sure if this pink shade might even work.
According to medicube, it's a peach-coloured tone-up cream - that's what I got from the official website, maybe the translation is wrong since this colour is more like pink powder. It has a vibrant shade to tone up yellowness and darkening of the skin. It should help create a clear and transparent glass skin effect. I have to admit, it doesn't leave a white cast, but it tones the skin. I wasn't positive at first because I was worried it might not tone up skin as well as purple tone-up creams, but I'm positively surprised. It does tone the redness of the skin, it makes yellow tones less visible and I feel like in general it's a good base for makeup. The skin looks radiant. I wouldn't say that it gives you a glass skin effect as your skin shines like a pure glass or like a full jar of Vaseline, it's more like a natural glow without an oily film.
One of the biggest advantages of this product is its lightweight formula. It's light, it doesn't leave any oily residue and the pigment in this cream brightens the skin. You can even apply it on eyelids, it won't sting your eyes. You can layer this sunscreen - I tried reapplying it and the reapplication process is smooth but I didn't use makeup on. It doesn't feel sticky on the skin. Even my friends from university asked me about this sunscreen because the tone-up effect is delicate, and believe me in Europe tone-up creams with lavender or pink shades aren't that popular, majority of European brands go for beige shades which I hate because I'm too pale for that, so medicube PDRN Pink Tone Up Sun Cream is an ideal choice for me.
I believe that you already spotted PDRN in the name of the product, it's an amazing ingredient and it looks like Medicube is highly promoting it even if the brand that is the most popular due to its PDRN products is Rejuran. Still, medicube decided to use high-quality PDRN and Glutathione in medicube PDRN Pink Tone Up Sun Cream formula. Another thing that medicube shares with consumers is that this sunscreen is a functional product - it improves wrinkles, protects from UV and helps with whitening of the skin. The functions were tested and reported to The Korean Ministry of Food and Drug Safety (MFDS).
medicube PDRN Pink Tone Up Sun Cream is a formula for sensitive skin, my veins are quite visible and I often deal with redness, I believe that this sunscreen is helping my skin by toning down the redness, but it also feels a bit calming since I used it even after skincare treatments like microneedling with acid peel. It should lower the irritation caused by heat, but that's something I can't measure. Even if this product is suitable for sensitive skin - remember to check ingredients and do a patch test before you start using it.
I'm almost done with my first tube and I definitely feel that I might repurchase it because it's a good sunscreen, but I'm worried that I can't see it getting popular because if any medicube product is worth hype, it's definitely this sunscreen.
Where can I buy medicube PDRN Pink Tone Up Sun Cream and how much does it cost?
I bought medicube PDRN Pink Tone Up Sun Cream at Olive Young*, it cost $32/50 ml (or €30.40/50 ml). Right now you can get it for about $20/€19 since Olive Young has a sale. You can also use my affiliate code BETWEEND0 to save a few additional % on your order. Medicube PDRN Pink Tone Up Sun Cream is also available at YesStyle*, but it currently costs $38.08/50 ml - you can use my affiliate code BETWEENDOTS to save on your order.
Overall, I think it's a sunscreen worth a try if you search for tone-up sunscreen with a subtle toning effect.
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