Cooling skincare is a trend lately, and I found what I consider the most cooling K-beauty sunscreen available on the market. It's called beplain Mung Bean Cooling Moisture Sunscreen, and it's based on Ice Mung Bean. Does it help cool down your skin? Why do we need cooling products at all?
What's UV?
UV stands for Ultraviolet. It's nothing but the selected range of frequencies of the electromagnetic spectrum. UV rays are invisible to humans, but that doesn't mean they don't exist. Each type of UV—UVA, UVB, and UVC—has different wavelengths and properties.
UVA, UVB and UVC - what do each of them do, and where can you meet them?
I'm sure you know about UVA and UVB, but UVC or the difference between UVA2 and UVA1? Let's start from the shortest wavelengths - UVC (100nm - 280nm) exist in space and is absorbed by the ozone layer, it can kill bacteria that's why on Earth you can find it in germicidal lamps - you might ask me, but these lamps are usually visible to a human - it's because they are made in a way that makes them safe for you and other people - you shouldn't enter the room when the UV lamp is on and make people aware that the lamp is on we add other substances so the lamp has a blue/purple colour when it's on. This technology is used, for example, in labs and hospitals.
We all remember UVB (280nm –315nm) because it is said that B in UVB stands for BURN. Indeed, this UV length is responsible for sunburns, but it also helps synthesise Vitamin D - a vitamin which we all need because lack of it can lead to osteoporosis. UVB is focused on the epidermis, aka the outer layer of the skin, while UVA (315nm –400nm) can penetrate through the epidermis and dermis, so it penetrates your skin deeper. A in its name stands for Aging. The bad news is that UVA can penetrate glass, and both UVA and UVB cause lots of damage, including skin cancer and oxidative stress.
Should I wear sunscreen at home?
We already know that UVA penetrates through the glass, so do we need to use sunscreen at home? Yes, especially if you spend lots of time working near the window, then it's better to put on a layer of sunscreen in the morning and have any type of protection at home as well. But you can also use window films to reduce the risk. The choice is left to you. What I do is keep my blinds on the window during the entire morning, and when the sun is not that intense. Because my windows are situated on the Eastern side, the light usually starts to fade in the afternoon. Usually by afternoon, I already have sunscreen on, and I've reapplied a few times.
What's the difference between mineral and chemical sunscreen?
It depends on which side we look at this topic. Mineral sunscreens are sunscreens that don't contain any carbon atoms - this automatically makes them inorganic sunscreens. Chemical sunscreens contain carbon atoms, which makes them organic substances. The main difference is that mineral sunscreen usually leaves a white cast, and it's better if we use both Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide for a broad spectrum of UV protection. Chemical sunscreens don't leave a white cast, and they have more sophisticated formulas. Both are amazing. In some cases, PIH (hyperpigmentation), mineral sunscreens, and natural pigments can make a good layer of protection from UV rays.
Sunscreen reapplication
The majority of brands recommend reapplying sunscreen every 2-3 hours. The reason behind this is simple - we are active, we are sweating, we wear clothes, or we touch our faces. All these things can remove a layer of sunscreen from the skin. We react differently to the same amount of UV radiation - my skin might react badly to 5 minutes of sun without protection, and my skin might need 10 more minutes. That's why, on average, we say that reapplying sunscreen every 2-3 hours is the best.
Meet The Brand: Beplain
Beplain is a Korean skincare brand. According to the internet, this brand was founded in 2019. Beplain combines traditional ingredients with modern solutions to provide products to keep your skin healthy and make you more confident. The brand strives to strike a balance between living in harmony with traditional values. They try to promote sustainable products and transparency. One of the main ingredients used by Beplain is Mung Bean.
beplain Mung Bean Cooling Moisture Sunscreen - Packaging
beplain Mung Bean Cooling Moisture Sunscreen comes in a paper box. I bought it in a set. Inside, you can spot a plastic tube. It's easy to squeeze since the material used for this packaging is LDPE, or low-density polyethene. It has a precise applicator, and that's a thing I enjoy a lot in sunscreens lately.
beplain Mung Bean Cooling Moisture Sunscreen - Texture & Scent
The texture is lightweight but moisturizing. I feel like beplain Mung Bean Cooling Moisture Sunscreen is going to be enjoyed by dry and combo skin more than oily skin. It's unscented sunscreen, but I keep saying that all the time and this time won't be different - sunscreens to me have some characteristic creamy scent.
If you've got oily skin, instead of beplain Mung Bean Cooling Moisture Sunscreen, I would go for Laneige Water Bank UV Barrier Sunscreen, unless you don't mind your skin being more plump, then go for beplain.
Read more: Laneige Water Bank UV Barrier Sunscreen
beplain Mung Bean Cooling Moisture Sunscreen - SPF & PA
According to the brand, beplain Mung Bean Cooling Moisture Sunscreen has SPF 50 and PA 16 (++++).
beplain Mung Bean Cooling Moisture Sunscreen - Ingredients
Water, Dibutyl Adipate, Propanediol, Butyloctyl Salicylate, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Niacinamide, Drometrizole Trisiloxane, Caprylyl Methicone, Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid, Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Tromethamine, Pentylene Glycol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Phaseolus Radiatus Seed Extract, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract, Aloe Vera Leaf Extract, Viola Mandshurica Extract, Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract, Phaseolus Radiatus Sprout Extract, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Glyceryl Stearate, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate, Methylpropanediol, Methyl Diisopropyl Propionamide, Carbomer, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate/VP Copolymer, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Adenosine, Polyether-1, Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Propylheptyl Caprylate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Butylene Glycol, Tocopherol, Glycerin, Chromium Oxide Green
Water is often hidden in cosmetic products under names such as "Aqua" or "Eau". It's a solvent, but it's not your regular drinking water. Water in skin care products must meet specific standards. It should be clean and free from minerals, microorganisms, or other substances. Typically, water constitutes the majority of the product's content. Dibutyl Adipate is an oily emollient. This oil-soluble ingredient dissolves in oils. It creates a hydrating film on the surface of the skin to prevent the skin from dehydration. You can see it in sunscreens as a solvent.
Propanediol, also known as natural glycol, is an alternative to propylene glycol. It is a solvent with additional moisturizing properties, making the product smooth. It can even improve the effectiveness of active ingredients. Butyloctyl Salicylate is a solvent commonly used in sunscreens. It stabilizes some sunscreen agents and boosts SPF protection. Ethylhexyl Triazone or Uvinul T 150 is a sun-protecting agent. It covers the UVB range (280-320nm). Its peak is at 314 nm.
Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3 - a vitamin soluble in water. It helps with problems like wrinkles, acne, skin texture, and enlarged pores and promotes collagen synthesis. Niacinamide makes the skin barrier stronger. It might be handy in cellulite treatments. Do you want to fight pigmentation or uneven skin? Try to mix niacinamide with Kojic Acid, Arbutin, Vitamin C, Tranexamic Acid or Retinol. Drometrizole Trisiloxane or Mexoryl XL is a sun-protecting agent developed and patented by L'Oréal Group in 1989. It's a chemical, photostable sunscreen that protects the skin from the negative effects of UVA & UVB radiation. According to the brand, Mexoryl XL is safe for the environment.
Caprylyl Methicone is an alkylmethyl silicone and emollient. It has a waxy texture, and it makes the product easier to apply. It works great with natural ingredients and pigment. It's a volatile silicone, so you don't have to worry - it disappeared almost right after application.
Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid is a long name, that's why you probably know this ingredient as Mexoryl SX or ecamsule. Mexoryl SX was patented in 1982 by L'Oréal, so when we talk about other brands, we stick to the name Ecamsule. This sunscreen protects your skin from UVA radiation (315–400 nm) and peaks at 345nm. It's a chemical sunscreen with high stability. Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate is an emulsifier. 1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic solvent and preservative. It protects products from microorganisms by boosting other preservatives. At the same time, it can moisturize the skin and has no unpleasant effects on the epidermis.
Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate or Uvinul A Plus is a sun-protecting agent. It covers the UVA range (320-400 nm), and its peak of protection is 354 nm. Tromethamine is a synthetic pH adjuster. Pentylene Glycol is mostly a solvent and stabilizer, but it has great moisturizing properties. Cetearyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. In the beauty industry, it's an emollient. Many people associate alcohol with something awful for the epidermis, but not every alcohol is nasty. Cetearyl alcohol leaves a moisturizing film on the skin to prevent your skin from transepidermal water loss (TEWL). We use Cetearyl alcohol to create an emulsion.
Polymethylsilsesquioxane is a silicone that protects your skin from dehydration by creating a film on the surface of the skin. Silicones have a positive meaning to your skin - they make products easier to spread, make the formula more elegant or even protect skin and hair. Phaseolus Radiatus Seed Extract or Mung Bean Extract. Mung beans have been used for beauty purposes even during the Joseon period in Korea. Mung beans are a great ingredient for pore care, whitening, moisturizing, or even cooling the skin. Laminaria Digitata Extract or Kelp Extract is a hydrating and nourishing ingredient obtained from brown algae. It has anti-inflammatory properties. It can be helpful for sensitive skin since it deals well with irritation and redness.
Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract is an ingredient related to hanbang - traditional Korean medicine. It's an antioxidant with moisturizing and anti-inflammatory properties. Aloe is a common ingredient in beauty products. Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract has moisturizing properties. Aloe pulp contains over 95-99% water. Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract can be helpful after sunburns, sun exposure, acne, and sensitive skin. Viola Mandshurica Flower Extract is a source of flavonoids. It's an antioxidant with anti-inflammatory properties.
Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract or Japanese Mountain Yam Root Extract is a source of ascorbic acid, tannin, iron, niacin, riboflavin and zinc. Phaseolus Radiatus Sprout Extract or Mung Bean Sprout Extract. Mung bean has been used for beauty purposes even during the Joseon period in Korea. Mung beans are a great ingredient for pore care, whitening, moisturizing, or even cooling the skin. Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine is quite a hard name to remember, that's why you can find people talking about this ingredient by calling it Tinosorb S. It's one of the newer types of sunscreen agents and one of the strongest ones. It's a chemical sunscreen that protects skin from UVA (315-400 nm) & UVB (280-315 nm), and its peak is high. It's a stable sunscreen that works with other sun-protecting substances to protect them from early photodegradation.
Glyceryl Stearate is an emollient with emulsifying properties. Potassium Cetyl Phosphate is a surfactant and emulsifier for oil-in-water formulas. Potassium Cetyl Phosphate is quite common in SPF formulas since it makes sunscreen more water-resistant. Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate stabilizes the emulsion. Methylpropanediol is a solvent with antimicrobial properties. Methyl Diisopropyl Propionamide is a cooling ingredient. Carbomer is a synthetic thickener. Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate is an emulsifier. Ethylhexylglycerin is a preservative with subtle moisturizing and antimicrobial properties. Glyceryl Stearate Citrate is a water-in-oil emulsifier.
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer is a polymer with thickening properties. Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic polymer and quite a large molecule. It works as a thickener and emulsion stabiliser. Adenosine naturally occurs in the skin. One of the roles of adenosine in the body is that of a neurotransmitter. In skin care, we use adenosine for its anti-wrinkle properties. Adenosine is an anti-inflammatory ingredient. It can boost collagen production. At the same time, it speeds up the healing process. Adenosine can have positive effects on reducing redness. In hair care, adenosine can help with hair loss.
Polyether-1 is a thickener. Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone is an emulsifier. Propylheptyl Caprylate is an emollient that usually comes along with sun-protecting agents. Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid is a low-weight humectant. We have to remember that not every molecule can get through the skin surface, and lower molecular weight HA can penetrate the skin deeper and bring moisture inside the skin. It's a natural polymer that binds water in the skin to prevent TEWL (transepidermal water loss). Triethoxycaprylylsilane is a silicone used to coat sunscreens and pigments. It makes the product easier to spread. Biosaccharide Gum-1 is a product of sorbitol fermentation. It's a polysaccharide - nothing but sugar, and sugar in skincare usually has moisturizing properties. Biosaccharide Gum-1 also has calming and soothing properties. You might want to use it with hyaluronic acid for longer and stronger hydration.
Butylene Glycol is a common ingredient in products. It's not only a solvent. We use butylene glycol because it helps penetrate active ingredients, protects products from drying, and moisturizes skin and hair. This ingredient can prevent hair loss and strengthen hair. Tocopherol is an antioxidant known as Vitamin E. It's an oil-soluble vitamin that fights free radicals and makes UVB protection and natural lipid barrier stronger. It's good to mix it with vitamin C for better effects. Oily skin might react with pore-clogging to vitamin E. It is not true that vitamin E works as a preservative or helps with scars.
Glycerin or Glycerol is a humectant. Depending on the product, its origin can be natural or synthetic. It protects TEWL (transepidermal water loss), which naturally occurs in the skin. It's one of the NMFs and a natural moisturizing factor. It's practical in hair care. Glycerin won't clog your skin or irritate it—just the opposite—it protects your skin from irritation. Chromium Oxide Green is a green pigment.
How does beplain Mung Bean Cooling Moisture Sunscreen work?
Since the beginning, I was very positive about beplain Mung Bean Cooling Moisture Sunscreen, but the reason why I had to buy it was easy - I was told that this sunscreen is the most cooling one available.
At my last workplace, I got asked by my team leader right after Cosmoprof if I knew what was going on with Korean brands releasing lots of cooling products. I was surprised because even if it was the beginning of sunscreen season, I've never really noticed if cooling products are this huge in Korea. Since then, it was all a Baader–Meinhof phenomenon - I started to notice cooling skincare everywhere. It's not a new thing, I've been using Clarins Cryo-Flash Cream-Mask for over a year now, and this mask is cooling, but this type of product has changed a lot. There are new cooling ingredients and solutions.
But why do we even try to cool down the skin? It's all related to the fact that temperature affects skin just like UV and IR can. You probably are aware that certain temperatures can damage collagen and elastin fibres, but prolonged heat can damage these fibres too. The idea of cooling skincare is to balance the temperature of the skin to prevent aging caused by heat. Not to mention that cooling feeling on the skin is so pleasing.
The main ingredient that's supposed to cool down the skin is a combination of Mung Bean (Vigna Radiata Seed Extract) with Laminaria Japonica Extract, Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract and Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract. It's called Ice Mung Bean. Now you might ask me, but where is Vigna Radiata Seed Extract? It's hidden under the "Phaseolus Radiatus Seed Extract" name. Don't ask me why, but when I see the translation of the mung bean, I see both versions. Mung Bean in traditional medicine has cooling properties, so it makes sense why this ingredient was chosen by beplain. It's supposed to lower the temperature up to -10.5°C, and that's something I can't measure, but the texture feels a bit cooling.
Besides that, this sunscreen is recommended for sensitive skin with pore problems. My skin type seems to be in target, since I got combo skin that's sensitive, and my pores are visible (I'm not happy about it, but all I can do is take good care of them). The texture feels super moisturizing and cooling. I'm sure lots of people are going to love it, but for me, it feels a bit sticky, to be honest. It leaves that delicate moisturizing film that doesn't get dry, and with my skin, I wish my sunscreen would feel moisturizing, but at the same time, dry. Sounds challenging? But it is possible.
The texture has a slight green tint, but I don't see it covering the redness of my skin like Dr Jart+ colour treatment does. Still, it does give a delicate change in the skin shade by balancing the redness. I love tinted sunscreens, I usually choose the ones with pink pigment like medicube PDRN Pink Tone Up Sun Cream or Nivea UV Deep Protect & Care Tone-up Essence. But in comparison to them, beplain Mung Bean Cooling Moisture Sunscreen is more globally-friendly. What I mean is that the effect won't bleach your skin visually like the majority of asian tinted sunscreens tend to. I love this bleached effect, so you know what my problem is, I'm not used to such a delicate effect. Still, I'm sure this sunscreen is going to be loved by many people.
Read more: Dr.Jart+ Cicapair Tiger Grass Color Correcting Treatment with SPF 30
It's a lightweight formula, it doesn't leave any white cast, it doesn't transfer to black clothes, so I can even use it on my hands. It doesn't migrate on my skin, it doesn't sting my eyes. There are many great points to this solution. I have to admit it's good, but it won't be in my top 5.
Where to buy beplain Mung Bean Cooling Moisture Sunscreen and how much does it cost?
beplain Mung Bean Cooling Moisture Sunscreen is available in a set on Olive Young*. For two sunscreens, 50 ml each, I paid $29. You can use my affiliate code BETWEEND0 to save on your order.
Overall, beplain Mung Bean Cooling Moisture Sunscreen is an interesting sunscreen.
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