There are a few skincare brands that have really exploded in popularity lately - Medicube, Numbuzin, and Anua, to name a few. I'm not someone who usually jumps on viral trends, but when I saw that Anua had released the Azelaic Acid 10 Hyaluron Redness Soothing Serum, I couldn't resist giving it a try.
After all, several of my friends have already gone through multiple bottles of this serum, so it has to be good... right? Well, I might be a little biased.
What’s Azelaic Acid?
Azelaic acid (often abbreviated as AZA) is not a new skincare ingredient, but it has become increasingly common in cosmetic products. When we think of acids, we usually think of AHAs or BHAs - powerful exfoliating acids that can be harsh if used incorrectly, but highly beneficial for concerns such as acne, blemishes, and signs of aging.
Azelaic acid is different because it is a dicarboxylic acid, not an exfoliating acid like AHAs or BHAs. It can be derived from grains such as barley, rye, and wheat, and it is also naturally produced by Malassezia, the same group of yeasts associated with dandruff.
Azelaic acid is widely used in both cosmetology and dermatology thanks to its antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties. It is particularly popular among people dealing with acne, rosacea, demodex-associated skin concerns, and melasma. It is also considered one of the skincare ingredients that can be used during pregnancy.
Another reason azelaic acid is so versatile is that it inhibits tyrosinase, an enzyme involved in melanin production. This makes it a valuable ingredient for treating post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, melasma, and other forms of uneven pigmentation.
In skincare products, azelaic acid is available in concentrations ranging from around 10–15% in over-the-counter products to 20% (and sometimes higher) in prescription formulations, although the availability of higher-strength products varies depending on a country’s regulations. Despite its many benefits, azelaic acid has relatively poor water solubility, which can make it more challenging to formulate into elegant cosmetic products.
Azelaic Acid Derivatives
To overcome the solubility limitations of azelaic acid, some brands use its derivatives instead. One of the most common is Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate (PAD), a water-soluble derivative of azelaic acid combined with glycine.
Like azelaic acid, PAD can help regulate sebum production, reduce redness, and improve hyperpigmentation, including melasma. Because it is generally gentler than pure azelaic acid, it is often recommended for people with very sensitive skin or those who cannot tolerate higher concentrations of AZA.
Azelaic Acid in Korea
Many Korean skincare brands have recently launched products containing azelaic acid, but if you visit an Olive Young store in South Korea, you may be surprised that you won’t find these serums on the shelves.
That’s because, in South Korea, azelaic acid is not classified as a cosmetic ingredient. Instead, it is regulated as a pharmaceutical (medicinal) ingredient. As a result, products containing pure azelaic acid are generally available through pharmacies rather than cosmetic retailers.
For this reason, many Korean brands formulate azelaic acid products specifically for export to international markets. One of the best-known azelaic acid products available in Korean pharmacies is Azela Cream, which contains prescription-strength azelaic acid and is commonly recommended for concerns such as acne and hyperpigmentation.
Meet the Brand: Anua
Anua is a Korean skincare brand that quickly became a global phenomenon. Launched in 2019 by The Founders, the brand is known for its minimalist approach to skincare, focusing on simple formulations, soothing ingredients, and sustainability.
Anua gained worldwide recognition through viral products such as its Heartleaf 77% Soothing Toner, which helped establish the brand as one of the leading names in K-beauty. Today, its product range includes cleansers, serums, toners, creams, and sunscreens designed for a variety of skin concerns.
The brand’s ambassadors include Korean actress and singer Bae Suzy, while Kendall Jenner has served as a global ambassador, helping introduce the brand to a wider international audience.
Anua Azelaic Acid 10 Hyaluron Redness Soothing Serum
According to Anua, the Azelaic Acid 10 Hyaluron Redness Soothing Serum is a lightweight serum designed to soothe sensitive and irritated skin. The brand also claims that the formula is non-comedogenic, making it suitable for acne-prone skin.
The serum contains 10% azelaic acid, hyaluronic acid, and Anua's Gentle Calming Complex™, which includes blue tansy oil, ubiquinone, green tea leaf water, aloe leaf juice, and seven types of cica. The pale green colour of the serum comes from naturally derived ingredients.
Anua Azelaic Acid 10 Hyaluron Redness Soothing Serum - Packaging
If there's one thing I immediately liked about this product, it's the packaging. Anua uses a sturdy glass bottle that doesn't feel flimsy or cheap, which I really appreciate. The pipette dispenses the product smoothly and makes it easy to control how much serum you use.
The bottle comes packaged in a paper box, and Anua has recently refreshed its branding. While the new packaging is more uniform across the brand's product range, I actually think it looks cleaner, more polished, and much more professional than the previous design.
Anua Azelaic Acid 10 Hyaluron Redness Soothing Serum - Texture & Scent
I really appreciate that the Anua Azelaic Acid 10 Hyaluron Redness Soothing Serum is fragrance-free and contains no artificial colourants. The texture is lightweight and quite fluid - much runnier than I would normally expect from a serum containing 10% azelaic acid. Despite its consistency, it spreads easily over the skin and feels comfortable to apply.
Is Anua Azelaic Acid 10 Hyaluron Redness Soothing Serum vegan or cruelty-free?
According to Anua’s Malaysian website, the majority of Anua’s products are cruelty-free and vegan. However, there is currently no clear information confirming whether the Anua Azelaic Acid 10 Hyaluron Redness Soothing Serum specifically is vegan or cruelty-free.
Anua Azelaic Acid 10 Hyaluron Redness Soothing Serum - Ingredients
Water, Azelaic Acid, Propylene Glycol, Sodium Hydroxide, Dipropylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Panthenol, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Betaine Salicylate, Glycerin, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Ethylhexylglycerin, Allantoin, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water, Sodium Hyaluronate, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Niacinamide, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Beta-Glucan, Centella Asiatica Extract, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Root Extract, Madecassoside, Asiaticoside, Asiatic Acid, Madecassic Acid, Squalane, Zinc Pca, Butylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Ceramide NP
Water is typically listed in cosmetic products as "Aqua" or "Eau". It acts as a solvent, but it is not the same as ordinary drinking water. In skincare products, water must meet strict purity standards to ensure it is free from impurities, including minerals, microorganisms, and other contaminants. In most formulations, water makes up the largest proportion of the product. Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid that can be derived from grains such as barley, rye, and wheat. In skincare, it's valued for its antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties, making it a popular ingredient for acne-prone and sensitive skin. It helps regulate excess sebum production, reduce redness, and even out skin tone. As a tyrosinase inhibitor, azelaic acid can also help fade post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and other forms of discoloration by slowing down melanin production. Because of its soothing properties, it's especially recommended for people with rosacea or persistent facial redness. In over-the-counter skincare products, azelaic acid is most commonly found at concentrations of around 10%, while higher strengths are typically available by prescription.
Propylene glycol is a multifunctional ingredient used as a humectant and solvent in skincare formulations. It helps attract and retain moisture while improving the delivery of other ingredients. It can also form a lightweight film on the skin’s surface, helping to reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Sodium Hydroxide is a pH adjuster commonly used in skincare formulations. It helps balance the pH of products to ensure stability and maintain skin compatibility. Dipropylene glycol is a multifunctional ingredient commonly used as a solvent in skincare formulations. It helps dissolve other ingredients, improve product texture, and provides moisturizing benefits by helping the skin retain hydration.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic solvent and preservative. It protects products from microorganisms by boosting other preservatives. At the same time, it can moisturize the skin and has no unpleasant effects on the epidermis. Panthenol, also known as vitamin B5, is a humectant that helps retain moisture and reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL). It has soothing and anti-inflammatory properties, supporting the skin barrier and helping with irritation and the healing process. It is especially useful for sensitive or damaged skin, including after sun exposure. In haircare, panthenol helps hydrate, soften, and improve hair manageability. Hydroxyethylcellulose is a thickening agent commonly used in skincare formulations to improve texture and consistency. It also forms a lightweight protective film on the skin, helping to reduce moisture loss and leave the skin feeling smoother.
Betaine salicylate is a combination of betaine and salicylic acid. It is a gentle chemical exfoliant that helps remove dead skin cells while being milder than traditional salicylic acid formulations. Glycerin, also known as Glycerol, is a humectant that helps attract and retain moisture in the skin. Depending on the product, it can be derived from natural sources or produced synthetically. It helps protect the skin from TEWL (transepidermal water loss), a natural process in which water evaporates from the skin's surface. Glycerin is one of the components of the NMF (Natural Moisturizing Factor), which plays an important role in maintaining skin hydration. It is also widely used in hair care products due to its moisturizing properties. Glycerin is generally considered non-comedogenic and is unlikely to clog pores. Rather than irritating the skin, it can help support the skin barrier and reduce the feeling of dryness and irritation.
Biosaccharide Gum-1 is a polysaccharide produced through the fermentation of sorbitol. Like many sugar-based ingredients used in skincare, it has excellent moisturizing properties and helps the skin retain water. It also provides soothing and calming benefits, making it a useful ingredient for sensitive or irritated skin. When combined with humectants such as hyaluronic acid, it can help support longer-lasting hydration. Ethylhexylglycerin is a multifunctional ingredient used as a preservative and preservative booster in cosmetic formulations. It has mild moisturizing and antimicrobial properties, helping to keep products stable while supporting the effectiveness of other preservatives.
Allantoin is a naturally occurring compound found in the human body, as well as in plants such as comfrey. Although it can be extracted from natural sources, the allantoin used in skincare is typically produced synthetically to ensure consistent quality and purity. It acts as a humectant, helping the skin retain moisture while also providing soothing and skin-protecting benefits. Allantoin is well known for supporting the skin's natural healing process, making it a popular ingredient in products formulated for dry, sensitive, or irritated skin. Dipotassium glycyrrhizate is a soothing ingredient derived from licorice root (Glycyrrhiza glabra). It is known for its anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties, making it a great choice for sensitive, irritated, or redness-prone skin. This ingredient also has moisturizing benefits and can help support the skin barrier. Thanks to its ability to reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation and dark spots, dipotassium glycyrrhizate is often used in products targeting uneven skin tone. Its gentle nature makes it suitable for most skin types, including sensitive skin.
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, also known as neem leaf extract, is a botanical ingredient known for its antibacterial and soothing properties. It is commonly used in skincare formulations designed to support clearer, healthier-looking skin. Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Water is a green tea hydrosol with refreshing, soothing, and hydrating properties. It helps calm the skin while providing antioxidant benefits. Sodium Hyaluronate is the sodium salt form of hyaluronic acid and a naturally occurring component of the skin. It has excellent water-binding properties, helping to attract and retain moisture for long-lasting hydration. By supporting the skin’s moisture balance, sodium hyaluronate helps maintain a plump and healthy-looking complexion. It can also form a lightweight moisturizing film on the skin’s surface and improve the stability of skincare formulations by preventing them from drying out.
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, also known as neem flower extract, is a botanical ingredient with antioxidant, antibacterial, and soothing properties. It helps calm the skin while supporting its natural defense against environmental stressors. Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3, a water-soluble vitamin. It helps address issues such as wrinkles, acne, uneven skin texture, and enlarged pores, while promoting collagen synthesis. Niacinamide makes the skin barrier stronger. It might be handy in cellulite treatments. Do you want to fight pigmentation or uneven skin? Try mixing niacinamide with Kojic Acid, Arbutin, Vitamin C, Tranexamic Acid, or Retinol. Aloe barbadensis leaf juice is rich in vitamins, minerals, and other beneficial compounds. In skincare and haircare, it is used as a humectant with soothing, moisturizing, and anti-inflammatory properties. It may also support the skin’s natural healing process.
Beta-glucan is a polysaccharide that can be derived from sources such as yeast, seaweed, and fungi. It is a powerful humectant with soothing and skin-conditioning properties, helping to attract and retain moisture in the skin. By forming a protective film on the skin's surface, beta-glucan helps reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and supports a healthy skin barrier. It may also help improve the appearance of fine lines by keeping the skin hydrated and plump. Some studies suggest that beta-glucan has antioxidant properties as well. Thanks to its soothing and barrier-supporting benefits, beta-glucan pairs well with ingredients such as niacinamide and retinoids and can be useful after cosmetic treatments when the skin needs extra support.
Centella Asiatica Extract is one of the most popular botanical ingredients in skincare. Also known as Asiatic pennywort, tiger grass, or Gotu kola, this plant is valued for its high content of triterpene saponins, including madecassoside and asiaticoside. Centella asiatica has soothing, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties, making it especially beneficial for sensitive, irritated, or acne-prone skin. It supports the skin’s natural healing process, may stimulate collagen production, and can help improve skin hydration by supporting hyaluronic acid synthesis. It is also commonly used in products targeting rosacea and skin barrier concerns.
Centella asiatica leaf extract is a popular skincare ingredient known for its soothing, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties. Rich in triterpene saponins such as madecassoside and asiaticoside, it helps calm irritation, support the skin’s healing process, and strengthen the skin barrier. It is especially beneficial for sensitive, acne-prone, and redness-prone skin. Centella asiatica root extract is derived from the root of Centella asiatica, a plant also known as tiger grass, Gotu kola, or Asiatic pennywort. It is a popular skincare ingredient valued for its soothing and anti-inflammatory properties. It may help support the skin’s natural healing process and is a great ingredient to consider for irritated or sensitive skin.
Madecassoside is one of the key active compounds found in Centella asiatica. Known for its antioxidant and calming properties, it helps soothe irritation and support the skin’s natural repair process. It may stimulate collagen and elastin production, contributing to improved wound healing and skin regeneration. When paired with antioxidants like vitamin C, it may also provide additional anti-aging benefits. Asiaticoside is another active compound found in Centella asiatica. It's primarily known for its soothing and skin-repairing benefits. Alongside its antioxidant properties, it helps support the skin's natural healing process, making it a great ingredient for irritated or damaged skin. It may also stimulate collagen production, which can improve skin elasticity and soften the appearance of fine lines over time.
Asiatic acid is a naturally occurring triterpenoid found in Centella asiatica. It is known for its skin-repairing and soothing properties, making it a common ingredient in products formulated for sensitive or damaged skin. Research suggests that asiatic acid can stimulate collagen synthesis and support wound healing, helping to improve the skin's barrier function over time. It also has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, which may help protect the skin from oxidative stress while reducing irritation and redness. Madecassic acid is a bioactive compound found in Centella asiatica. It has antioxidant and soothing properties, making it a beneficial ingredient for sensitive or irritated skin. It may also support the skin’s natural healing process by promoting repair and regeneration.
Squalane is a lightweight emollient that closely resembles the lipids naturally found in our skin’s sebum. Although the names sound almost identical, squalane and squalene are different: squalane is the hydrogenated, more stable form of squalene, meaning it is less prone to oxidation and has a longer shelf life. This ingredient works well for all skin types, including sensitive and irritated skin, thanks to its moisturizing and barrier-supporting properties. Squalane is commonly derived from sources such as sugarcane or olives and helps soften the skin while reducing moisture loss. Zinc PCA is a combination of zinc and pyrrolidone carboxylic acid. Unlike zinc oxide, it is primarily used in skincare for its sebum-regulating and antimicrobial properties. It can help support acne-prone skin by reducing excess oil and calming irritation. Zinc PCA may also be beneficial in haircare, especially for maintaining a healthier scalp. Butylene glycol is a multifunctional ingredient commonly used in skincare and haircare products. It acts as a solvent and humectant, helping to dissolve ingredients while attracting moisture to the skin and hair. It can also enhance the penetration of active ingredients, improve a product's texture, and prevent formulations from drying out.
Pentylene Glycol is a multifunctional ingredient commonly used as a solvent and stabilizer in skincare formulations. It also has moisturizing properties, helping the skin retain water and improving the overall feel and performance of products. Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside is a mild non-ionic surfactant and stabilizer commonly used in skincare formulations. It helps cleanse the skin by allowing oil and water-based ingredients to mix while also improving the texture and stability of products. Hydrogenated lecithin is a stabilized form of lecithin commonly used in skincare formulations. It works as an emollient, helping to soften and smooth the skin while supporting the skin barrier. Ceramides are naturally occurring lipids found in the skin and are often described as the “cement” that holds skin cells together. Ceramide NP (also known as Ceramide 3) helps strengthen the skin barrier, reducing moisture loss and protecting the skin from dehydration.
How to use Anua Azelaic Acid 10 Hyaluron Redness Soothing Serum?
Anua Azelaic Acid 10 Hyaluron Redness Soothing Serum is quite straightforward to use, as azelaic acid can be incorporated into both morning and evening skincare routines. You can apply it after an essence or toner, depending on the order of your skincare routine. As a lightweight serum, it fits easily into most routines.
Anua recommends starting with 1–2 drops per use and gradually increasing the amount up to 5 drops. The brand also suggests using the serum 1–2 times a week at first and slowly increasing the frequency.
Personally, I don’t think this serum requires the same level of caution as stronger actives like retinol or glycolic acid. While azelaic acid can sometimes cause purging, this formula has a lightweight, watery texture, and azelaic acid is generally considered a gentler active. Of course, those with sensitive skin should still introduce it gradually and monitor how the skin reacts.
How does Anua Azelaic Acid 10 Hyaluron Redness Soothing Serum work?
I know that a lot of people love Anua. I'm a bit skeptical of the brand, mostly because my experience with the Niacinamide 10% + TXA 4% Serum was disappointing. My skin simply isn't a fan of niacinamide, and in general, I'm a bit frustrated by how heavily it's promoted when higher concentrations can easily cause redness and irritation for people with sensitive skin. I also tried the 3 Ceramide Panthenol Moisture Barrier Cream, and it didn't work well on my already irritated skin. Still, I decided to give Anua another chance with this serum and the PDRN Hyaluronic Acid Capsule 100 Serum. Speaking of PDRN, I'd love to see more people try Rejuran, since it's the brand that really started the PDRN trend.
But back to Anua. I picked up this serum hoping it would change my opinion of the brand. I'm aware that many people enjoy this formula, but I have mixed feelings about it. My main issue is that formulating an azelaic acid product with such a lightweight, liquid texture isn't easy, so I suspect the formula relies more on azelaic acid derivatives or alternative ingredients than on a meaningful concentration of azelaic acid itself.
I can't say it's a bad serum because it didn't cause any purging, and it was nicely hydrating without leaving my skin feeling oily. It's a gentle formula, but I didn't notice any improvement in pigmentation or blemishes. I think I'd feel differently about Anua if it weren't for the pricing. While YesStyle* offers the brand at fairly affordable prices, the prices I'm seeing on my local market are much higher than I'd be willing to pay for a product like this.
I think there are plenty of more affordable brands that offer similar or better options. With Anua's current collaboration with KPop Demon Hunters, which clearly targets a younger audience, I also think some retailers should reconsider their pricing. I'm still not a fan of Anua, but I can see this being a product that teenagers might enjoy. However, if you're an adult looking for a product that truly focuses on azelaic acid and delivers the benefits associated with it, I'd recommend choosing something else. I haven't tried Anua's Azelaic Acid 15+ Intense Calming Serum yet, so I can't say whether it's any better, but there are definitely alternatives worth considering.
Skin compatibility with Anua Azelaic Acid 10 Hyaluron Redness Soothing Serum
This serum is best suited for combination and oily skin types. I also think it's more likely to appeal to a younger audience, especially those looking for a lightweight, gentle formula.
Anua Azelaic Acid 10 Hyaluron Redness Soothing Serum - Pros & Cons
Pros:
- Lightweight, fluid texture that layers well.
- Fragrance-free and free from artificial colorants.
- Hydrating without leaving the skin greasy.
- Gentle formula
- Contains multiple soothing and barrier-supporting ingredients (panthenol, cica complex, ceramide NP, beta-glucan, aloe vera, green tea).
- Suitable for combination, oily, acne-prone, and sensitive skin.
- Sturdy glass packaging with a well-designed dropper.
Cons:
- Didn't noticeably improve pigmentation or blemishes.
- The watery texture makes the 10% azelaic acid claim feel less convincing
- May be too gentle for those seeking stronger azelaic acid benefits for acne, rosacea, or hyperpigmentation.
Anua Azelaic Acid 10 Hyaluron Redness Soothing Serum - Alternatives
There are quite a few alternatives to Anua's Azelaic Acid Serum. In theory, formulas such as SKIN1004 Lab in Nature Madagascar Centella Azelaic Acid 10 Ampoule should perform well, as they combine azelaic acid with Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate and Azelamide MEA. Another interesting option is the new COSRX Azelaic Acid range, which includes the Azelaic Acid 10 B5 Redness Soothing Cream and the Azelaic Acid 20 B5 Redness Soothing Cream. Both come in a cream format, which I personally trust more when it comes to azelaic acid formulations.
If your skin tolerates salicylic acid, La Roche-Posay Effaclar A.Z. is another excellent option. In general, pharmacy-grade azelaic acid products are still the gold standard if you're looking for noticeable results, although they can be considerably more expensive than over-the-counter alternatives.
Where to get Anua Azelaic Acid 10 Hyaluron Redness Soothing Serum and how much does it cost?
Anua Azelaic Acid 10 Hyaluron Redness Soothing Serum is available from YesStyle* and typically costs between $15 and $23 for a 50 ml bottle, depending on current promotions. If you're planning to shop at YesStyle, you can also use my referral code BETWEENDOTS to save 2–5% on your order.
Overall, this serum didn't convince me to become an Anua fan, but I also can't say it's the worst azelaic acid formula I've ever tried, as it didn't cause any additional irritation. Still, I think this formula is better suited to younger users or those looking for a gentle, lightweight serum. If you've ever tried Anua, let me know what your favorite product is!
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