Holy Grail of Essences in a new version | Missha Time Revolution Artemisia Treatment Essence Review

Friday, 9 August 2019

 Missha Time Revolution Artemisia Treatment Essence

Missha Time Revolution is a skincare Holy Grail for a huge number of people. Some say that it's a dupe for cult J-beauty SK-II Pitera Facial Treatment Essence. Missha won't stop surprising me with new releases so when I saw Missha Time Revolution Artemisia Treatment Essence I knew I need it, why? Because I like herbs and Artemisia is the latest skincare trend. 

What's an essence?

I've read thousands of essence definitions, but the one I feel is the most accurate is describing essence as a lightweight but a well-concentrated liquid solution.  Essences are preparing the skin for upcoming steps in the routine, but they also add hydration. They are somewhere between toner and serum. Previously toner was used to balance pH of the skin after the cleansing, but nowadays it's not necessary since we've got cleansers with pH = 5,5. Some people use only essences, but I can't imagine giving up on toner. 

About Missha

Missha is a South Korean brand with almost 20 years of history. The brand was founded in 2000. During all these years Missha opened stores grew a lot, you can find this brand in the US, Japan, Russia and many other countries. Even at the local drugstore, I saw Missha once and lately, Sephora is selling couple Missha products - I'm not sure how about other locations but some European Sephoras sell Missha online (and in selected stores). 

 Missha Time Revolution Artemisia Treatment Essence

Time Revolution series

Time Revolution series has a long story. Products made by Missha are evolving so older versions are discontinued but once a product is discontinued Missha is releasing a new product. Let's look at a couple of Time Revolution essences before we check Artemisia Treatment Essence since it's going to be a huge surprise. I feel like I never told it here but the reason why I check ingredients is to see how different formulas can get but also to train myself since I need to know these ingredients and what they do not only for my studies but also for the future work. It's also a way to make you aware that every tiny ingredient - including a herbal extract is a chemical ingredient but the story of its use can be longer than we imagine. 

Missha Time Revolution The First Treatment Essence Rx is the latest Time Revolution The First Treatment Essence version released.


Yeast Ferment Extract, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Extract, Pearl Powder, Water, Diethoxyethyl Succinate, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium PCA, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Polyquaternium-51, Butylene Glycol, Vinegar, Glycerin, Ceramide NP, Cholesterol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Xanthan Gum

Let's see for a bit what we can find in the most popular essence made by Missha. You can see here fermented ingredients: Yeast Ferment Extract and Bifida Ferment Lysate. Bifida is one of the ingredients recommended for sensitive skin. There's also Niacinamide, it doesn't only help with mature skin and wrinkles but it brightens the skin, helps with acne and pigmentation that's why so many people swear by this ingredient. Adenosine is one of the ingredients I like because it speeds up the healing process so if you have any wounds or acne you should like it. Ceramide NP and Cholesterol are here to help with skin barrier - do you know that we can find both Cholesterol and Ceramide in a skin barrier? You might be surprised with Vinegar, I'm surprised as well but that's just Acetic Acid hidden under a different name. 

Missha Time Revolution The First Treatment Essence Intensive - Moist was a previous version released around 2016. Some shops still have it but I'm not sure if it's not discontinued.


Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Water, Diethoxyethyl Succinate, Niacinamide, Hordeum Distichon (Barley) Extract, Cassia Alata Leaf Extract, Glycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, Dimethicone, Polyquaternium-51, 1,2-Hexanediol, Adenosine, Lecithin, Lactic Acid, Acetic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate

This version is also based on 2 different ferments: Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate and Bifida Ferment Lysate. Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate make the formula different, this ingredient is a moisturizer with soothing properties. It reminds me of wine when I smell it. Again Niacinamide and Adenosine are used here and Acetic Acid is not hidden under the name Vinegar. But I spot 2 new extracts: Hordeum Distichon (Barley) Extract and Cassia Alata Leaf Extract. Hordeum Distichon (Barley) Extract is told to be an antioxidant and humectant but I've got one problem with it, it's Barley so if you've got a coeliac/celiac disease, you're allergic to gluten or if you've got Dermatitis Herpetiformis you should stay away from this essence. You might get a rash and believe me you want to avoid it. I do use sometimes products with gluten but I take medication but even with it sometimes I might get a rash. Cassia Alata Leaf Extract is also known as Candle Tree Leaf Extract, it's antifungal and antibacterial. Dimethicone is an emollient and silicone but you don't have to be scared of it, it traps water inside the skin so it won't get dehydrated. You probably know Lactic Acid, it's an AHA exfoliant but in very small concentration Lactic Acid acts as a moisturizer. 


Missha Time Revolution Immortal Youth Blue Essence

Next version was released around 2015 and it's different from the previous one not only with ingredients but also the packaging. Meet Missha Time Revolution Immortal Youth Blue Essence

Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Extract, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Pentylene Glycol, Lecithin, 1, 2-Hexanediol, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Phenoxyethanol, Carbomer, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Squalane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Ceramide NP, Sodium Dilauramidoglutamide Lysine, Sodium Hydroxide, Polyquaternium-51, Adenosine, Fragrance(Parfum), Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Cassia Alata Leaf Extract, Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract, Disodium EDTA, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylyl Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Tripeptide-10 Citrulline, sh-Decapeptide-9, Tripeptide-1, Resveratrol, Sodium Cocoyl Alanine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Moringa Pterygosperma Seed Extract, Maltodextrin, Cucumis Melo (Melon) Fruit Extract, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Maltodextrin Crosspolymer, Triethanolamine

This time as a base you can see Water. Niacinamide is pretty high here then we get Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Extract and Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, obviously Macadamia Oil is more interesting for us. It's an oil with a huge amount of oleic acid which makes it ideal for dry skin (oily skin prefers linoleic acid and it doesn't really like oleic acid). It's also an emollient. Squalane, it's an ingredient which you can naturally find in the skin and we usually mistake it with squalene. Believe me, you don't want to see an exam with 20 questions and the only answers available to choose were squalane and squalene. It's an emollient as well, if you've got sensitive skin some companies released Squalane Oils like Olivarrier - you might try them since Squalane is a skin-identical ingredient it should cause less harm than other oils. Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate is also known as SAP and it's nothing else than a stable form of Vitamin C. Immortal Youth Blue Essence is not free from ferments - Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract is a ferment, it's also known as Anctarcticine and the name is not accidental - this ferment has its roots in Antarctica. It is told that this ingredient is not only a great moisturizer but it also stimulates collagen production which makes it a solid anti-aging treatment, but like other ingredients - it needs more research. Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein might be a problem for people allergic to gluten. This serum contains peptides, Resveratrol (an antioxidant) and Sodium Hyaluronate

Missha Time Revolution The First Treatment Essence Intensive

Last but not least let's look at other version of Time Revolution The First Treatment Essence Intensive (probably discontinued). 

Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Propanediol, Niacinamide, Polyquaternium-51, Amaranthus Caudatus Seed Extract, Betaine, Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract, Pentylene Glycol, Piper Methysticum Leaf/Root/Stem Extract, Water, Trehalose, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Hydrolyzed Corn Starch, Phenoxyethanol, Beta Vulgaris (Beet) Root Extract, Phellodendron Amurense Bark Extract, Cassia Alata Leaf Extract, Disodium EDTA, Adenosine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Raffinose, Tromethamine, Acetic Acid, Lactic Acid, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Potassium Sorbate, Hexapeptide-9

What new we can find here? Betaine - a moisturizer derived from sugar beetroots. Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract - an ingredient used in traditional medicine, also a moisturizer. Phellodendron Amurense Bark Extract - another ingredient from traditional medicine, told to be used for its antibacterial and antiseptic properties. Last but not least Hexapeptide-9, which is a peptide. 

Time Revolution Homme The First Treatment Essence

This year I also spot an FTE version for men. Is it any different? We know that men have a bit different skin pH than women but does it mean they need different ingredients? 

Yeast Ferment Extract, Salix Nigra (Willow) Bark Extract, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Water, Diethoxyethyl Succinate, Propanediol, Sodium PCA, Adenosine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polyquaternium-51, Allantoin, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Ceramide 3, Cholesterol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Xanthan Gum

Salix Nigra (Willow) Bark Extract is the ingredient that truly got my eye. It's a Black Willow extract, recommended for oily and acne-prone skin due to its antibacterial properties. I honestly think this version would work for women too. 

Time Revolution The First Treatment Essence Mist 

There's also a concept which I want to mention - Time Revolution The First Treatment Essence Mist - we will need it later. I'm not going to focus on what's inside of it but we have to remember that there's an Essence Mist. 

 Missha Time Revolution Artemisia Treatment Essence

Missha Time Revolution Artemisia Essence 

Let's focus on the main star of today's post.

Ingredients

Why I've decided to put all the ingredients of other products from the Time Revolution line? For 2 reasons. Reason number one is the fact that Artemisia Essence is something I've never seen before, a completely new move made by Missha. Reason number two is the fact that I didn't want to make this post boring since there are no researches I can link here - Artemisia is still an ingredient that needs more research. It's probably an excellent antioxidant but we lack information. Traditional medicine? Yes, it exists in traditional medicine and since I like both - Science and Tradition I can't imagine to not give you that information.


Missha Time Revolution Artemisia Essence - Ingredients

Artemisia Annua Extract

Artemisia Annua Extract is also called sweet wormwood, sweet annie or Qing Hao. In Traditional Chinese Medicine, Qing Hao is used to curing fever. I found that Artemisinin is used to cure Malaria but is also sold as a supplement - no joke, I found it in one drugstore for quite a high price but more about it you can read at WHO website. According to Missha it's a hydrating and soothing ingredient.

 Missha Time Revolution Artemisia Treatment Essence

Differences between Artemisia Essence and Time Revolution series

The key to the success of Missha is fermentation, in all the essences they use fermented ingredients. It is told that Artemisia Essence is based on double fermented Artemisia Annua Extract from Ganghwa Island while in all Time Revolution First Time Essences contain fermented ingredients like Yeast Ferment Extract, Bifida Ferment Lysate or Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate. The fermentation process is a good thing since it makes molecules smaller and the smaller molecule is the easier it penetrates through layers of the skin. Think about it like a cake - you can't probably fit the entire cake at once to your mouth but if you cut a piece you can eat this tiny piece without a problem. One of the examples of the molecule that had problems with its size is collagen - normally, we use it in skincare as a film because it makes the skin looks good but if we want to boost collagen production then we alternatively go for Vitamin C serums.

 Missha Time Revolution Artemisia Treatment Essence

Packaging

Glass bottle in a brown-green shade. It's a bit heavy but it looks so gracious and it feels expensive - that's why I like essences if they are in glass packaging they always feel expensive. 

Scent and texture

The texture reminds me of water but the scent, it's herbal and I enjoy it but it doesn't remind me anything. 

 Missha Time Revolution Artemisia Treatment Essence

How does it work?

Mugwort comes in many different forms what I like about it the best is the scent. Missha Time Revolution Artemisia Essence got me with the packaging and simple solution for my skin. I didn't have any bad reactions to this Essence, it is soothing and hydrating, it's good for layering and summer. I used it during the heatwave and I feel like no matter if it's hot summer or very cold winter I will enjoy it. During the winter my skin gets dehydrated and ultra-sensitive and I can't wait to try it back then, I might even buy an ampoule and pack foam since those two concepts look interesting too. Overall, my review is short but I'm pretty sure that if you need a soothing product with a very simple formula it's a product for you but if you need a product for wrinkles, acne and a diverse number of other stuff - go for something more powerful like FTE essence from Missha. 

 Missha Time Revolution Artemisia Treatment Essence

Artemisia line

Missha's Artemisia line grew fast and it seems like Missha won't stop. I want to introduce you to this line so you can see how you can build a routine based on Artemisia. 

Missha Time Revolution Artemisia Treatment Essence [Mist Type]

Artemisia Annua Extract

It's like Essence but you use it as a mist. Not sure if I'll ever try it.

Missha Time Revolution Artemisia Ampoule

Artemisia Annua Extract (70%), Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Water, 1,2-Hexanediol, Betaine, Trehalose, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Saccharum Officinarum (Sugarcane) Extract, Carbomer, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Tromethamine, Polyquaternium-51, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA

Missha has different versions of Time Revolution Ampoules. The base is a 70% of Artemisia Annua Extract. The formula seems to be moisturizing and soothing.

Missha Time Revolution Artemisia Jelly Sheet Mask

Artemisia Annua Extract

I couldn't find more info about it since it looks like a new release from a week ago. Artemisia Annua Extract is once again a base but I bet it's not 100%. Artemisia Annua Extract since it wouldn't make any sense - you need some cellulose or hydrogel, etc

Missha Time Revolution Artemisia Pack Foam Cleanser

I couldn't find the ingredients of this product but it looks like a clay mask/cleanser with artemisia. This concept looks very interesting and honestly, I want to try it.  

 Missha Time Revolution Artemisia Treatment Essence

Should I go for Missha's FTE or Artemisia Essence?

I said that once and I'll say that again. We can't say that one essence is better than others since their purpose is different. First Time Essence is made for people that want to focus on acne, aging or pigmentation while Artemisia line is a line for sensitive skin. 

Where to buy the Missha Time Revolution Artemisia Essence?

Missha Time Revolution Artemisia Essence is available on Jolse for $22.16/150ml (its regular price is $31.66), you can also find there Ampoule, Essence Mist and Pack Foam from the same series on Jolse. 

I hope you've enjoyed this review even if it's very untypical kind of review. Have you ever tried any Missha product? Which essence would you pick FTE or Artemisia?

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*** This post was made in collaboration with Jolseeven though it still shows my personal opinion on the topic and product**

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