Microneedling: which derma pen should I choose?

Sunday 11 September 2022

microneedling: which derma pen should I choose?

Microneedling is not a new procedure in aesthetic cosmetology. It's been a while since derma pens started to become popular, but the tool is a key to rejuvenating the skin. The choice of tools is huge, and even your local drugstore sells products like dermarollers for at-home treatments. Dr Pen is a microneedle system popular among estheticians, why this system is a great choice for you? Let's find out! 


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Summer is almost over, and the upcoming months are the best for skincare treatments! It's time which many clients are going back to visit estheticians and fix what the sun decided to spoil. We all deal with different skin problems, and there can be many different reasons behind these problems. Even though I start this month my 5th year studying aesthetic cosmetology, I tried microneedling on my skin a few months ago. 

Before we talk about microneedling and why is it positive for the skin, we should talk a bit about how the skin is made. Our skin is more complicated than it looks. We got three main layers of the skin - epidermis, dermis and hypodermis - subcutaneous tissue. The epidermis is the outer layer of the skin and the only visible layer of the skin. This layer of the skin protects our bodies from pathogens, the atmosphere, UV and other environmental dangers. The epidermis layer contains 4-5 different layers of the skin (depending on the part of the body), each of these layers has a different name: stratum corneum, stratum lucidium (this one only exists on palms and soles), stratum granulosum, stratum spinosum and stratum basale. Stratum spinosum and stratum basale have a special name, together they make stratum Malpighi. As you can see skin is thicker than you think. We should also add that the skin cycle is related to the journey of keratinocytes from stratum basale to stratum corneum. Many skin problems are not in the stratum corneum but deeper layers of the skin, and not every ingredient can get deep due to its molecular weight.  

Hyaluronic Acid is a good example of molecular weight. As you probably already know Hyaluronic Acid can have very different molecular weights. The bigger the molecule is, the biggest chance it won't get through the skin. That's why high molecules of hyaluronic acid usually work on the surface of the skin as a film, while low or extra low molecules work on deeper layers. The smaller molecules are providing more hydration to the skin, reduce fine lines, improve skin texture or even boost wound healing. There are ways to help the product penetrate the skin deeper - you can use ultrasounds, encapsulate active ingredients in liposomes, or use cold or temperature. Microneedling is also one of the ways to help active ingredients get through the layers of the skin.  

What's microneedling? 

Microneedling is a cosmetic treatment. The name says it all, in this procedure tiny, sterilized needles are getting into your skin to stimulate your skin by creating tiny wounds. Sounds scary? Skin needling is a minimally invasive treatment - it's a great alternative to mesotherapy. We create tiny wounds in the skin to provide active substances to deeper layers of the skin. The wound is like a signal to the body that something is wrong, and it needs to "fix" the problem. Depending on the effects and body part we want to focus on, the length of needles is different - from 0,2mm to 3mm.  

0,2mm is better for pigmentation and very shallow scars or fine lines. Deeper scars need a bit different length like 0,5 to 2 mm. For body treatments, 1-2,5 mm should be a good choice.  

There are three different types of tools used in microneedling: stamps, derma rollers and pens. Stamps and derma rollers share one thing which I hate - they are not very sanitary. If you use them at home, I believe you don't even have an idea how to sanitize them, not to mention the technique of use. I believe using them is harder than using a Derma Pen. It's hard to control the pressure of stamp or dermaroller, not to mention that rolling doesn't always put the needle vertically to the skin but leaves an angle, and that's something we want to avoid. If I would have to choose the microneedling device then derma pens are the best option if it comes to safety and comfort of use. Derma pens are not manual tools, they are electric, and they are more automated, but it is a positive thing - you can be sure that needles go into the skin at a selected length.  

Why it's better to get professional treatments than at-home treatments? 

Even if derma pens or doctor pen aren't banned for a normal customer, I encourage you to choose professional treatments or if you have to do microneedling at home - be careful and choose the right microneedling machine. If you are new to this topic, visit a microneedling professional - there are some places on the skin which we avoid during microneedling and you can be sure that the professional will take great care of you and your skin. Still, there are many estheticians and if an esthetician recommends you a derma roller then I would consider this as a red flag since trends in microneedling have changed a lot.  

Positive sides of microneedling 

Skin pen microneedling has many positive sides. It's not only about the rejuvenation of the skin. Microneedling is a treatment recommended for people dealing with scars, pigmentation, cellulite, acne (non-active form), wrinkles and fine lines and even hair loss. Yes, microneedling is not only for the face or body but your scalp too!  

There are cases in which you shouldn't choose microneedling. Active acne is more like a slang term that some estheticians use. It's about pimples, if your skin is full of pimples, there's a risk that you might spread P.acnes on a larger area of the skin with microneedling that's why we don't do any treatments like mirconeedling on skin with active acne. Pregnancy, skin infections, retinoids, allergies, problems with wound healing or blood clotting, autoimmune diseases, cancers and some drugs are nothing else than contraindications.  

Microneedling results aren't seen right after the treatment - it needs some time for the skin to heal. Still, it is recommended to do a series of microneedling treatments to see full results.  

Which Derma Pen is the best for microneedling? 

The choice of derma pens is huge, but I prefer to choose products from known brands used by other estheticians. Lots of my friends recommend Dr Pen. There are two types of doctor pens - wireless and non-wireless. No matter which one you choose, each derma pen needs cartridges. The cartridge system is safer to use since each cartridge should be changed after every use (you use it for one treatment). Dr Pen Microneedling Pen Ultima M8 is a wireless pen with 6-speed levels while Microneedling Pen Ultima A7 has only 5-speed levels. Both pens work on needle lengths 0,25-2,5 mm.  

Where to order Dr Pen Microneedling pens? 

To learn more about Dr Pen or to order your microneedling pen visit Dr Pen USA official website or Dr Pen UK official website. Products which I recommended in this post: Dr Pen UK Microneedling Pen Ultima M8 Dr Pen USA Microneedling Pen Ultima M8 Dr Pen UK Microneedling Pen Ultima A7  

Have you ever tried microneedling before?

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