If you think that acne is bad, then believe me, there are worse things in life than acne, it's what comes next. It's the discolouration left on the skin which takes a while to fade, and the majority of the time, we use the wrong solutions. COSRX The Alpha-Arbutin 2 Discoloration Care Serum is a new COSRX solution that targets post-acne pigmentation. It's based on Alpha-Arbutin, Tranexamic Acid, Niacinamide, Glutathione and N-Acetylglucosamine (NAG). Is this the best solution to fight post-acne pigmentation?
Just as always, I want to give you a deep dive into COSRX The Alpha-Arbutin 2 Discoloration Care Serum, but to do that, we have to go through some cosmetic basics.
What's hyperpigmentation?
Usually, when I introduce anyone to this topic, I say that pigmentation is an excessive accumulation of pigment, causing darker skin colouration or the formation of dark spots on the skin. Hyperpigmentation is a skin condition that can happen to anyone, but the key is melanin.
Melanin and Melanogenesis
I'm sure you're aware that melanin is a pigment in the skin, hair and eyes. Melanin is produced in the lower layers of epidermis called stratum basale - basal layer of epidermis, but there's a catch - melanin is produced only by one type of cell - melanocyte. The synthesis of melanin by melanocytes is called melanogenesis. It already sounds complicated, but if you look at a melanocyte, you can see inside this tiny organelle called a melanosome. Melanogenesis can't be triggered without two things: l-tyrosine, an amino acid that's melanin precursor and tyrosinase, which is a super important enzyme that literally boosts melanin synthesis. The melanogenesis process can be induced by UV radiation, but hormones like estrogen can induce this process too. If you're pregnant and you start to notice pigmentation on your skin, it's very likely that this pigmentation was caused by hormones.
By the way, we usually focus on two types of melanin in skin - eumelanin and pheomelanin. Eumelanin has a darker (black or brown) shade, while pheomelanin is a lighter (yellow or red) pigment.
What can cause pigmentation?
You already know that the melanogenesis process can be induced by UV radiation and hormones. There are a few other factors which can cause pigmentation, like hormonal contraception, genetics, deficiency of vitamins and minerals (especially vitamin B12 and zinc), genetics, environment, medication, herbs or even your diet. Healthy diet, antioxidants and sun protection can lower the possibility of new dark spots appearing on your skin.
Is it PIH or PIE?
There are many types of pigmentation, like melasma and solar lentigo, but when we talk about acne, we usually talk about the pigmentation left after a pimple is gone from our skin. But it left an "I was there" sign on your skin. This sign usually has a dark shade (PIH) or red shade (PIE). PIH stands for Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation, while PIE stands for Post-Inflammatory Erythema. You can spot the keyword for both: inflammation. Yes, acne is nothing but inflammation. That's why we have to treat it like inflammation to minimise the chance of PIH or PIE on your skin. Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation usually occurs on darker skin types (Fitzpatrick phototyping scale IV-VI) while Post-Inflammatory Erythema happens more often on lighter skin types (Fitzpatrick phototyping scale I-III). PIH is related to accumulation of melanin in one spot, while PIE is caused by damage to small blood vessels, so if you try to squeeze a pimple, you're making your situation worse, not only because you can spread Cutibacterium acnes (a bacteria that causes acne) on your skin, but you can also give yourself a longer period of healing, and a red mark that will stay with you for at least few months.
I'm not shaming you. Even as an esthetician, there are moments when I just have to squeeze some changes because I find them to be painful and annoying. Estheticians are also humans, and our skins don't have to be perfect.
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PIH and PIE are very different, and we have to target them a bit differently. We also have to remember that melanin queens and kings might have some limited options. If you want to target PIH with treatment like acid peel or laser, find an esthetician who knows darker skin types well, because you don't want to end up with more complications.
How to treat PIE and PIH at home?
There's a simple recipe for PIE and PIH. If you deal with Post-Inflammatory Erythema, focus on ingredients with anti-inflammatory properties or the ones recommended for redness and capillaries. There are a few ingredients I like to use, like azelaic acid, vitamin C, green tea, licorice root and dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, but there's also tranexamic acid, which I prefer to use on fresh changes. Tranexamic acid is a bit controversial since opinions are mixed on whether it works or not, but I see that it does a nice job with redness on my skin.
If you deal with Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation, choose tyrosinase inhibitors. You might want to try retinoids, arbutin, azelaic acid or kojic acid.
Meet the brand: COSRX
COSRX is a South Korean brand that you may know from the internet; it's a huge brand - the beauty community loves COSRX products. COSRX was founded in 2013. The name COSRX stands for COSmetics + RX(Prescription). The brand's motto is "expecting tomorrow", which means that the brand creates products which can improve your skin - maybe not overnight, but in the long run. Lots of beauty bloggers love COSRX, and there's one reason why COSRX got so big - the product quality and the affordable price. COSRX for me was one of the first K-beauty brands I tried, and I keep buying their Acne Pimple Master Patches all the time - in the US, it's different, but in Europe, getting acne patches is not an easy thing, but lately it's changing.
Even if COSRX is mostly known for their acne-prone skincare products, they make their formulas simple and universal, so even if your skin is dry, you might still be able to use them. Oily skin can get dehydrated as well. COSRX is a cruelty-free brand, and that's another good point of this brand, but it's not a vegan brand since it uses snail mucin, beeswax, propolis, etc. In late 2023, Amorepacific acquired COSRX shares, which makes COSRX Amorepacific's subsidiary.
COSRX The Alpha-Arbutin 2 Discoloration Care Serum - Packaging
COSRX sticks to its minimalistic vibe, so COSRX The Alpha-Arbutin 2 Discoloration Care Serum fits the entire COSRX collection well. It comes in a paper box. What I'm surprised to see is that you can find information on the packaging that COSRX The Alpha-Arbutin 2 Discoloration Care Serum is clinically proven to work, and it's noncomedogenic. This second part is mostly about marketing.
Inside the box, you can see quite a massive, I guess, glass bottle with a glass pipette. That's the type of packaging I enjoy using. It's not a clean glass, so you won't see how much of the product is left inside. The bottle contains 50ml of COSRX The Alpha-Arbutin 2 Discoloration Care Serum.
COSRX The Alpha-Arbutin 2 Discoloration Care Serum - Clinically proven?
On the COSRX website, you can see that COSRX decided to do clinical tests for this product. Tests were conducted by P&K Skin Research Center CO., Ltd. According to the results, after 4 weeks of using this serum, you should see a reduction of melanin (20.47%) and dark spots (22.31%).
COSRX The Alpha-Arbutin 2 Discoloration Care Serum - Scent & Texture
COSRX The Alpha-Arbutin 2 Discoloration Care Serum has no scent. It's a lightweight serum, and the texture has a delicate beige/yellow shade. It doesn't feel oily.
COSRX The Alpha-Arbutin 2 Discoloration Care Serum - Ingredients
Water, Propanediol, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Tranexamic Acid, Acetyl Glucosamine, Alpha-Arbutin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Dimethicone, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Diethoxyethyl Succinate, Butylene Glycol, Citric Acid, Alcohol, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Metabisulfite, Disodium Edta, Ethylhexylglycerin, Dextrin, Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Extract, Sodium Citrate, Madecassoside, Sodium Methyl Stearoyl Taurate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopherol, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hyaluronic Acid, Ferulic Acid, Panthenol, Arginine, Methyl Trimethicone, Allantoin, Glutathione, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract
Water hides in cosmetic products under names such as Aqua or Eau. It's a solvent, but it's not your regular drinking water. Water in skin care needs to fit some standards. It should be clean and free from minerals, microorganisms, or other substances. Usually, water makes up the majority of the product's content. Propanediol, also known as natural glycol, is an alternative to propylene glycol. It is a solvent with additional moisturizing properties, making the product smooth. It can even improve the effectiveness of active ingredients.
Glycerin or Glycerol is a humectant. Depending on the product, its origin can be natural or synthetic. It protects against TEWL (transepidermal water loss), a natural process that occurs in the skin. It's one of the NMFs and a natural moisturizing factor. It's practical in hair care. Glycerin won't clog your skin or irritate it—just the opposite—it protects your skin from irritation. Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3 - a vitamin soluble in water. It helps with problems like wrinkles, acne, skin texture, and enlarged pores and promotes collagen synthesis. Niacinamide makes the skin barrier stronger. It might be handy in cellulite treatments. Do you want to fight pigmentation or uneven skin? Try to mix niacinamide with Kojic Acid, Arbutin, Vitamin C, Tranexamic Acid or Retinol.
Tranexamic acid is an ingredient that I learned about through pharmacology lectures since it is widely used in healthcare. It's a solution that prevents blood loss - you can use it during heavy menstruation, nosebleeds or even patients after cardiac surgeries are recommended to use. Tranexamic Acid is a synthetic substance related to amino acids. Lately, tranexamic acid has become more popular as a pigmentation medication - especially for melasma. It inhibits tyrosinase to slow down melanogenesis. This ingredient is amazing, not only for people with pigmentation diseases but also for rosacea. It can be helpful with post-acne scars. Acetyl Glucosamine is a precursor of Hyaluronic Acid. It's an ingredient that helps with skin brightening and elasticity.
Alpha-Arbutin is a brightening antioxidant that inhibits tyrosinase. It makes it an ideal ingredient to fight pigmentation. 1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic solvent and preservative. It protects products from microorganisms by boosting other preservatives. At the same time, it can moisturize the skin and has no unpleasant effects on the epidermis. Dimethicone is a silicone and polymer. Dimethyl Isosorbide is a solvent that promotes the transport of active substances. Diethoxyethyl Succinate is an emollient. Butylene Glycol is a common ingredient in products. It's not only a solvent. We use butylene glycol because it helps penetrate active ingredients, protects products from drying, and moisturizes skin and hair. This ingredient can prevent hair loss and strengthen hair.
Citric acid is an AHA (alpha hydroxy acid) - a delicate exfoliant and a buffering ingredient. It adjusts the pH of the formula. Alcohol is an immense topic in skincare. Alcohol can be good or bad for your skin, but sometimes the amount makes it poisonous. Alcohol, after all, is a prominent solvent. It makes active substances penetrate the skin deeper. This effect has its cost - the skin is getting a bit irritated. Some substances can be dissolved only in alcohol. This ingredient has antibacterial properties. It works as a preservative by preventing microorganisms from growing in the product. It has some awful sides too - it can dry your skin, especially if you use it in large amounts. Sensitive skin is not a fan of this ingredient. Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate is a polymer and emulsifier.
Hydrogenated Lecithin is a version of lecithin. It works as an emollient in the formulas. Xanthan Gum is a polysaccharide that works as a thickener. Sodium Metabisulfite is an antioxidant. A preservative, but it can cause allergic reactions. It reduces the oxidation of haircare products. Disodium EDTA neutralizes metal ions in the formula to keep products fresh. Ethylhexylglycerin is a preservative with subtle moisturizing and antimicrobial properties. Dextrin is an emulsifier with stabilizing properties. Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Extract is a source of polyphenols and caffeine. It's an antioxidant that improves blood circulation.
Tocopherol is an antioxidant known as Vitamin E. It's an oil-soluble vitamin that fights free radicals and makes UVB protection and natural lipid barrier stronger. It's good to mix it with vitamin C for better effects. Oily skin might react with pore-clogging to vitamin E. It is not true that vitamin E works as a preservative or helps with scars. Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid is a low-weight humectant. We have to remember that not every molecule can get through the skin surface, and lower molecular HA can penetrate the skin deeper and bring moisture inside the skin. It's a natural polymer that binds water in the skin to prevent TEWL (transepidermal water loss). Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer is related to sodium hyaluronate. It's a good moisturizer.
Hyaluronic Acid is an ingredient loved by everyone! Hyaluronic acid naturally occurs in the skin. It's a glycosaminoglycan or GAG. What does that mean? It's a long polysaccharide - nothing but sugar, and we all know what sugars do in the skin. It's not different from Hyaluronic Acid - it acts like a humectant. One HA molecule is supposed to hold up to 1000x heavier molecules than this single HA molecule. Hyaluronic acid can have different molecular weights - smaller molecules are usually more hydrating than bigger ones. Ferulic Acid is an antioxidant that boosts Vitamin C effectiveness and stability; that's why you can spot them together in many formulas. It slows down aging process and absorbs UVA & UVB radiation. It has anti-inflammatory properties. Besides Vitamin C, ferulic acid works perfectly with vitamins E and A.
Panthenol is a humectant. It prevents skin from TEWL (Transepidermal Water Loss). Panthenol is also known as vitamin B5, and it helps with inflammation. Panthenol can soothe the skin irritated by preservatives, scent ingredients, and chemical sunscreens - it might have a meaning for lipids in our skin and skin barrier. It speeds up the healing process. It's good to use it after sunbathing. In hair care, Panthenol has moisturizing properties. If you have problems detangling your hair or hair growth, go for Panthenol. It is good to mix it with niacinamide and zinc oxide. You can see it in products for atopic dermatitis or psoriasis. Arginine is an amino acid. It helps with protein biosynthesis in adults. According to research from 1964, a lack of arginine might raise your chance of getting an HSV infection.
Methyl Trimethicone is a volatile silicone, a type of silicone that evaporates right after product application. It works as a solvent in the products. Allantoin is an ingredient that naturally occurs in our bodies, but brands usually use the synthetic form of this substance. It comes from comfrey or soybean roots and is a humectant with soothing and wound-healing properties. Glutathione is an antioxidant that naturally occurs in the skin. It's a tripeptide made out of glutamic acid, glycine and cysteine. It helps with free radical damage, and it inhibits melanin, which makes it a powerful ingredient to treat pigmentation. Because of the sulfur amount in glutathione, you can use it to moderate sebum production in acne-prone and oily skin types. It speeds up the skin healing process and supports vitamin C and vitamin E, so it's good to use it with both these ingredients.
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate is related to sodium hyaluronate. It boosts moisture in the skin and elasticity. It helps prevent skin from TEWL (transepidermal water loss). Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract is an ingredient which I prefer to see in skincare rather than seeing liquorice as food. It's an amazing antioxidant with anti-inflammatory properties. It can help with acne and visible red veins, and it brightens the skin. Or I should say it works on pigmentation. What's better than an anti-inflammatory ingredient with brightening properties? Liquorice is not new, since it's a popular ingredient in traditional herbal medicine. It's a source of glycyrrhizinic acid and glabridin.
How does COSRX The Alpha-Arbutin 2 Discoloration Care Serum work?
When I saw COSRX The Alpha-Arbutin 2 Discoloration Care Serum, I knew I would have to check it and share a review with you, but even if I got a review ready in January, I wanted to give myself some time. No, I wasn't planning to gatekeep COSRX The Alpha-Arbutin 2 Discoloration Care Serum, and by the end of this post, you will understand why.
COSRX The Alpha-Arbutin 2 Discoloration Care Serum is a powerful product. I didn't expect to see 5% niacinamide, 3% tranexamic acid, 2% N-acetylglucosamine and 2% alpha-arbutin. Add ferulic acid and glutathione to the formula. COSRX took ingredients that are recommended to treat pigmentation and created this amazing formula. According to the brand, COSRX The Alpha-Arbutin 2 Discoloration Care Serum is for people who deal with acne scarring, pigmentation (including hormonal hyperpigmentation and pigmentation caused by sun), uneven and dull skin. When I saw the first ads, I was like 'I have to try it. ' I'm very pale, so pigmentation and dark spots look like someone wrote something on a sheet of white paper. Pigmentation and redness are making me feel insecure, but even if I'm an esthetician, I don't do treatments since my job was related to beauty market analysis, marketing and beauty trainings for companies.
On the other side, COSRX The Alpha-Arbutin 2 Discoloration Care Serum is not only focused on pigmentation. It contains 5 types of hyaluronic acid, panthenol, tocopherol, allantoin and madecassoside. The dual nature of this serum is impressive. It feels like it has perfect balance. Every sign on earth and in the sky told me that it has to work and nothing can go wrong.
I don't react well to niacinamide in higher amounts than 2%, so I was a bit concerned about 5% of this product. That's why I used it mostly on my jaw and on the rest of my face as a spot treatment. I wanted to maybe not eliminate but lower the chance of any irritation of the skin. Sometimes the devil is in the details. As I wrote before, COSRX The Alpha-Arbutin 2 Discoloration Care Serum is a powerful product. It contains many actives, and even if COSRX wanted to eliminate ingredients that can be too heavy for the skin, it might happen that some people won't get the same results as everyone.
I'm one of these people. I always thought that my skin could get through a lot, but life likes to surprise me. Ferulic acid is nice, but in my case, it usually does nothing unless you mix it with vitamin C. Tranexamic acid? It's a good choice, but I had several pimples after using this product. I get the same reaction I get to zinc supplements. What was the problem? Sometimes you can go wrong with too many actives at the same time, and even if my skin is oily, it's also sensitive, so I expect that in my case, the problem was in the amount of active ingredients.
So, is COSRX The Alpha-Arbutin 2 Discoloration Care Serum a bad product? No, it's not. You see, everyone has a different reaction to the product, and something might work for me, but for some groups of people, it might not work. The majority of people using this serum have a positive opinion on it.
Where to buy COSRX The Alpha-Arbutin 2 Discoloration Care Serum, and how much does it cost?
COSRX The Alpha-Arbutin 2 Discoloration Care Serum is available on the official COSRX website, and it costs $25/50ml. On YesStyle*, you can get COSRX The Alpha-Arbutin 2 Discoloration Care Serum for $24.23, but YesStyle allows you to use codes and referral codes to save on your order. Feel free to use my code BETWEENDOTS. COSRX The Alpha-Arbutin 2 Discoloration Care Serum is available in a set at Olive Young. You can get 50 ml serum and 30 ml peptide serum for $25, but right now you can get it for less than $19 and with coupons, you can save even more. Olive Young* also allows you to use affiliate codes, so if you want to save even more, here's my code: BETWEEND0.
Read more: COSRX The 6 Peptide Skin Booster Serum
Do I plan to repurchase COSRX The Alpha-Arbutin 2 Discoloration Care Serum? No, because this product is not suitable for my skin, but if your skin isn't sensitive and you deal with pigmentation, I would give it a try.
Have you ever used COSRX products before?
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