Do electrolytes in skincare make sense? According to Biotherm, yes! Biotherm Aquasource+ Electrolyte Dewy Gel is a gel-cream inspired by fitness hydration. It’s a new hydrating product that oily skin should enjoy.
What’s NMF?
NMF stands for Natural Moisturizing Factor. NMF is a mixture of hygroscopic substances that naturally occur in the stratum corneum, the outermost part of the epidermis. It is mainly composed of amino acids, PCA (pyrrolidone carboxylic acid), lactic acid, urea, and mineral salts. NMF is crucial for the skin barrier because it attracts and holds water inside the skin, helping to prevent dryness. The amount of NMF in the skin decreases with age, and factors such as overexfoliation and the use of harsh cleansers can also reduce its levels.
About the brand: Biotherm
Biotherm is a French brand created in 1952, but L'Oréal became the owner of Biotherm in 1970. It's one of the luxury skincare brands in the L'Oréal portfolio. Biotherm bases its products on two important ingredients - mineral water and plankton. What's worth mentioning is Biotherm's commitment. If you check Biotherm's social media or website, you'll see a slogan or hashtag "Live By Blue Beauty", since mineral water has a huge meaning for Biotherm's formulas. By 2030, Biotherm plans to use 95% of biobased ingredients in formulas and make 90% of formulas biodegradable. Biotherm supports organisations and scientific research related to the ocean and marine life.
Biotherm Aquasource+ Electrolyte Dewy Gel - Packaging
I got 30ml of Biotherm Aquasource+ Electrolyte Dewy Gel. The full size is 100ml, and the bottle looks a bit different. 30ml comes in a tube with a very thin tip. You can see the gel texture right through the bottle. According to Biotherm's website, Aquasource+ Electrolyte Dewy Gel packaging is recyclable, and the paper used in the outside box is made out of FSC™ certified paper or PEFC in 100%.
Biotherm Aquasource+ Electrolyte Dewy Gel - Texture & Scent
I wanted to try Biotherm Aquasource+ Electrolyte Dewy Gel because of its texture. It’s a liquid gel with a consistency somewhat similar to essence, but richer in feel. It can be easily spread on the skin, though caution is needed to avoid applying too much. Upon application, it initially feels slightly sticky, but this stickiness fades as it dries, leaving a dry layer on the skin that does not dehydrate it. Using this moisturizer may allow you to skip a primer. I believe combination and oily skin types will prefer this one during the summer. It offers a delicate floral scent, though I cannot easily identify what specific flower it resembles.
Biotherm Aquasource+ Electrolyte Dewy Gel - Ingredients
Aqua / Water / Eau, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, PEG-20, Potassium PCA, Carbomer, Niacinamide, Calcium PCA, PPG-6-Decyltetradeceth-30, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium PCA, Adenosine, Magnesium PCA, Caprylyl Glycol, Vitreoscilla Ferment, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Acetyl Glucosamine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tocopherol, Limonene, Citral, Citrus Aurantium Peel Oil, Citrus Limon Peel Oil, Carvone, Parfum / Fragrance
Water is typically listed in cosmetic products under names such as "Aqua" or "Eau". It's a solvent, but it's not your regular drinking water. In skin care products, water must meet specific purity standards, ensuring it is clean and free from impurities, including minerals, microorganisms, and other substances. Water usually makes up the majority of the product's content. Glycerin or Glycerol is a humectant. Depending on the product, its origin can be natural or synthetic. It protects against TEWL (transepidermal water loss), a natural process that occurs in the skin. It's one of the NMFs and a natural moisturizing factor. It's practical in hair care. Glycerin won't clog your skin or irritate it—just the opposite—it protects your skin from irritation.
Pentylene Glycol is mostly a solvent and stabilizer, but it has great moisturizing properties. PEG-20 is an emulsifier. Potassium PCA is a humectant, and it's one of the natural moisturizing factors (NMF). It prevents skin from transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and it supports the skin's barrier. Carbomer is a synthetic thickener. Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3, a vitamin soluble in water. It helps address issues such as wrinkles, acne, uneven skin texture, and enlarged pores, while promoting collagen synthesis. Niacinamide makes the skin barrier stronger. It might be handy in cellulite treatments. Do you want to fight pigmentation or uneven skin? Try to mix niacinamide with Kojic Acid, Arbutin, Vitamin C, Tranexamic Acid or Retinol.
Calcium PCA is a humectant that prevents skin from transepidermal water loss (TEWL) by keeping moisture in the skin layers. It's one of the ingredients found in natural moisturizing factor (NMF). It helps improve the skin barrier's function. PPG-6-Decyltetradeceth-30 is a surfactant. Sodium Hyaluronate, or the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid. It's a form of hyaluronic acid and naturally occurs in the skin. Sodium Hyaluronate has strong water-binding properties. Sodium hyaluronate, combined with elastin and collagen, is like a scaffolding for the skin. It has hydrating properties and leaves a hydrating film on the skin, but sodium hyaluronate prevents skincare products from drying.
Sodium Hydroxide is a pH adjuster. Sodium PCA is a humectant. Adenosine naturally occurs in the skin. One of the roles of adenosine in the body is that of a neurotransmitter. In skin care, we use adenosine for its anti-wrinkle properties. Adenosine is an anti-inflammatory ingredient. It can boost collagen production. At the same time, it speeds up the healing process. Adenosine can have positive effects on reducing redness. In hair care, adenosine can help with hair loss. Magnesium PCA is a humectant that boosts hydration of the skin. Caprylyl Glycol is an oily emollient and humectant that leaves a moisturizing film on the skin's surface.
Vitreoscilla Ferment is an ingredient obtained during the fermentation process. It's a soothing ingredient recommended for sensitive skin. It has a positive effect on the skin's microbiome. This ingredient is typical for L'Oréal brands such as Vichy, Biotherm and La Roche Posay. Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate neutralizes metal ions in the product. Acetyl Glucosamine is a precursor of Hyaluronic Acid. It's an ingredient that helps with skin brightening and elasticity. Ethylhexylglycerin is a preservative with subtle moisturizing and antimicrobial properties.
Tocopherol is an antioxidant known as Vitamin E. It's an oil-soluble vitamin that fights free radicals and makes UVB protection and natural lipid barrier stronger. It's good to mix it with vitamin C for better effects. Oily skin might react with pore-clogging to vitamin E. It is not true that vitamin E works as a preservative or helps with scars. Limonene is a scent ingredient, and it makes the product smell like lemon or orange. Limonene can enhance the penetration of other substances, but at the same time, it can irritate the skin. Citral gives products a lemon scent. It can be sensitizing for the skin.
Citrus Aurantium Peel Oil is an essential oil. It gives an orange scent to the product. Citrus Limon (Lemon) Peel Oil is an essential oil derived from lemon. It has antiseptic properties, but it's a perfuming substance. It might be a bit sensitive to the sun. Carvone is a scent ingredient that adds a pine or mint scent to the product. It can be sensitizing. Fragrance (Parfum) is a composition of scents. It can cause allergic reactions.
How does Biotherm Aquasource+ Electrolyte Dewy Gel work?
It has been some time since a new Biotherm product was introduced. The previous product that made an impression was the Biotherm Cera Repair Barrier Cream. The design of this new series is inspired by trends that appeal to a younger demographic, which aligns with the information on Biotherm’s website stating that the Aquasource+ Electrolyte Dewy Gel was inspired by fitness hydration. The product evokes a gym or fitness vibe, which matches its branding and intended inspiration.
Read more about: Biotherm Cera Repair Barrier Cream
But what does the fitness hydration have in common with this product? Well, it contains 7000 mg of Electrolyte Mix. There’s no information if the full-sized version has this amount, as the mini version, which I tested. This mix hides under names Calcium PCA, Potassium PCA, Sodium PCA, and Magnesium PCA. Usually, it’s recommended for people who work out to drink electrolytes. Electrolytes are tiny minerals in your body that carry an electric charge. Even though they are very small, they have very important jobs. They help keep the balance of water in the body, but they also help nerves send signals and help muscles move. When you're at the gym, you lose electrolytes when you sweat, that's why, instead of pure water, it's good to grab some electrolytes.
Can electrolytes be good for the skin? Yes, because we do use minerals in many cases, not only in creams, but for example, La Roche-Posay Serozinc is a great spray which is recommended to use to calm the skin. The use of the electrolyte mix makes sense if you search for hydration, and you need to boost your natural skin barrier.
There's also 1000mg Hyalu B3, a humectant which I believe is a combination of Sodium Hyaluronate and Niacinamide. We can’t forget the main ingredient found in Biotherm’s formulas, Biotech Plankton™. It's a blend of 35 essential nutrients that support skin vitality and a healthy skin barrier. It's rich in antioxidants, and it boosts MnSOD2 enzyme to protect against oxidative stress. MnSOD2 stands for manganese-dependent superoxide dismutase 2. TL;DR, it’s an enzyme inside cells that protects them from damage caused by free radicals, including oxidative stress and DNA damage. So the idea of boosting MnSOD2 can be helpful for slowing the aging process.
I had positive feelings towards this gel. The biggest surprise was the formula, which reminds me of some old L’Oréal Paris gel cream which I used as a teenager because it moisturized my skin well without leaving it oily. This is the same case. I was a bit worried since Biotherm Aquasource+ Electrolyte Dewy Gel soaks into the skin easily, and it leaves a bit sticky layer on the skin at first, but this feeling fades quickly. I think it’s a product that you can use without adding primer to your routine. It’s definitely a product for oily and combo skin types. The packaging has the Gen Z vibe, and I feel like younger adults and teens might enjoy this one more. If your skin is naturally super oily, you’re going to enjoy it. Obviously, I tested it in around 10 to 17 °C, so it might be a bit different in 30-40 °C, but I think it’s going to be a good moisturizer for summer.
How much does Biotherm Aquasource+ Electrolyte Dewy Gel cost, and where to get it?
Biotherm Aquasource+ Electrolyte Dewy Gel is not yet released in the US, but it’s coming soon. In Europe, you can find a full-size product on Notino for about €36.
It’s definitely a cream, which is going to be handy during summer for oily skin.
Post a Comment