This year, even Western brands are surprising us with unique sunscreens. First of the sunscreens I’ve tried this season is Kiehl's Better Screen™ UV Serum, a lightweight sun serum enriched with collagen peptide fragments.
What's UV?
UV stands for Ultraviolet, it's nothing but the selected range of frequencies of the electromagnetic spectrum. UV rays are not visible to humans, but that doesn't mean that they don't exist. Each type of UV - UVA, UVB and UVC has different wavelengths and different properties.
UVA, UVB and UVC - what do each of them do, and where can you meet them?
I'm sure you know about UVA and UVB, but do you know about UVC and the difference between UVA2 and UVA1? Let's start from the shortest wavelengths - UVC (100nm - 280nm) exist in space and is absorbed by the ozone layer, it can kill bacteria that's why on Earth you can find it in germicidal lamps - you might ask me, but these lamps are usually visible to a human - it's because they are made in a way that makes them safe for you and other people - you shouldn't enter the room when the UV lamp is on and make people aware that the lamp is on we add other substances so the lamp has a blue/purple colour when it's on. This technology is used, for example, in labs and hospitals. We all remember UVB (280nm –315nm) because it is said that B in UVB stands for BURN. Indeed, this UV length is responsible for sunburns, but it also helps with the synthesis of Vitamin D - a vitamin which we all need because lack of it can lead to osteoporosis. UVB is focused on the epidermis, aka the outer layer of the skin, while UVA (315nm –400nm) can penetrate through the epidermis and dermis, so it penetrates your skin deeper. A in its name stands for Aging. The bad news is that UVA can penetrate glass, and both UVA and UVB cause lots of damage, including skin cancer and oxidative stress.
Should I wear sunscreen at home?
We already know that UVA penetrates through the glass, so do we need to use sunscreen at home? Yes, especially if you spend lots of time working near the window, then it's better to put on a layer of sunscreen in the morning and have any type of protection at home as well. But you can also use window films to reduce the risk. The choice is left to you, but what I do is keep my blinds on the window during the entire morning, and when the sun is not that intense, because my windows are situated on the Eastern side, the light usually starts to fade in the afternoon - usually by afternoon I already have sunscreen on, a few times reapplied.
What's the difference between mineral and chemical sunscreen?
It depends on which side we look at this topic. Mineral sunscreens are sunscreens that don't contain any carbon atoms - this automatically makes them inorganic sunscreens. Chemical sunscreens contain carbon atoms, which makes them organic substances. The main difference is that mineral sunscreen usually leaves a white cast, and it's better if we use both Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide for a broad spectrum of UV protection. Chemical sunscreens don't leave a white cast, and they have more sophisticated formulas. Both are amazing. In some cases, PIH (hyperpigmentation), mineral sunscreens, and natural pigments can make a good layer of protection from UV rays.
Sunscreen reapplication
The majority of brands recommend reapplying sunscreen every 2-3 hours. The reason behind this is simple - we are active, we are sweating, we wear clothes, or we touch our faces. All these things can remove a layer of sunscreen from the skin. We react differently to the same amount of UV radiation - my skin might react badly to 5 minutes of sun without protection, and my skin might need 10 more minutes. That's why, on average, we say that reapplying sunscreen every 2-3 hours is the best.
About Kiehl’s
Do you know that Kiehl's is not a new brand on the market? Kiehl's story started in 1851. The brand started as a pharmacy created by John Kiehl. The first store created by Kiehl's is located on 3rd Avenue and East 13th Street in New York. This store is still open, and you can visit it! According to Kiehl's, the first product was created by Irving Morse, the next owner of Kiehl's pharmacy and pharmacologist, and his son continued working at Kiehl's. In 1962, Kiehl's started to sell Calendula Herbal-Extract Toner, Blue Astringent Lotion, Kiehl’s Lip Balm #1, and Ultra Facial Moisturiser. In 2005, Kiehl's released a new skincare line - Dermatologist Solutions™. Kiehl's Clearly Corrective™ Dark Spot Solution is one of the examples of the Dermatologist Solutions™ line. The brand is focused on creating good formulas for the skin and sustainability. It's also good to add that in the year 2000, L'Oréal acquired Kiehl's.
Kiehl’s Better Screen™ UV Serum - Packaging
Kiehl’s Better Screen™ UV Serum came in a paper box with all the information that’s needed about SPF and UVA protection. Since it’s a product from a brand that belongs to L’Oréal, you can see UVA in a circle. I’m not a fan of this type of providing information about UVA protection. Thankfully, Kiehl’s also added PA information, which is a bit easier to read.
Once you open the box, you get a glass bottle with a great applicator. If you used Vichy sunscreens, you probably know this solution. This packaging reminds me of Vichy Capital Soleil UV-Clear Anti-imperfections Water Fluid SPF 50+ PA++++. It looks the same.
Read more about: Vichy Capital Soleil UV-Clear Anti-imperfections Water Fluid SPF 50+ PA++++
Kiehl’s Better Screen™ UV Serum - Texture & Scent
The texture of Kiehl’s Better Screen™ UV Serum is really lightweight. I was positively surprised by this product. It feels creamy, but it doesn’t leave a white tint. It needs around 2-3 minutes if you want to apply it to your hands, but you wear a black t-shirt. It has a delicate scent of alcohol.
Kiehl’s Better Screen™ UV Serum - UV Protection
According to Kiehl’s, Better Screen™ UV Serum has SPF 50 and PA++++ (PPD Persistent Pigment Darkening 16 or more).
Kiehl’s Better Screen™ UV Serum - Ingredients
Water, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Alcohol Denat., Glycerin, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Dimethicone, Propanediol, Bis-Ethylhexyloxphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid, Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol [Nano] / Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, Silica, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Tocopherol, Butylene Glycol, Lauroyl Lysine, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Hydroxide, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Cetearyl Glucoside, Cellulose, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Xanthan Gum, Inulin Lauryl Carbamate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Polysorbate 60, Carbomer, Sodium Lactate, Polysorbate 20, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Water is typically listed in cosmetic products as "Aqua" or "Eau". It's a solvent, but it's not your regular drinking water. In skin care products, water must meet specific purity standards to ensure it is clean and free of impurities, including minerals, microorganisms, and other substances. Water usually makes up the majority of the product's content. Dicaprylyl Carbonate is a dry emollient. It prevents your skin from TEWL (transepidermal water loss) and makes your skin barrier stronger. It makes your skin velvet in touch. In hair care, Dicaprylyl Carbonate supports your hair condition from difficulties like exposure to cold and warm temperatures. It prevents hair from drying. It can be used as a solvent or emulsifier.
Alcohol Denat is an immense topic in skincare. Alcohol can be good or bad for your skin, but sometimes the amount makes a poison. Alcohol, after all, is a prominent solvent. It makes active substances penetrate the skin deeper. This effect has its cost - the skin is getting a bit irritated. Some substances can be dissolved only in alcohol. This ingredient has antibacterial properties. It works as a preservative by preventing microorganisms from growing in the product. It has some awful sides too - it can dry your skin, especially if you use it in large amounts. Sensitive skin is not a fan of this ingredient. Glycerin or Glycerol is a humectant. Depending on the product, its origin can be natural or synthetic. It protects against TEWL (transepidermal water loss), a natural process that occurs in the skin. It's one of the NMFs and a natural moisturizing factor. It's practical in hair care. Glycerin won't clog your skin or irritate it—just the opposite—it protects your skin from irritation.
Ethylhexyl Triazone or Uvinul T 150 is a sun-protecting agent. It covers the UVB range (280-320nm). Its peak is at 314 nm. Dimethicone is a silicone and polymer. Propanediol, also known as natural glycol, is an alternative to propylene glycol. It is a solvent with additional moisturizing properties, making the product smooth. It can even improve the effectiveness of active ingredients. Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine is quite a hard name to remember, that's why you can find people talking about this ingredient by calling it Tinosorb S. It's one of the newer types of sunscreen agents and one of the strongest ones. It's a chemical sunscreen that protects skin from UVA (315-400 nm) & UVB (280-315 nm), and its peak is high. It's a stable sunscreen that works with other sun-protecting substances to protect their early photodegradation.
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane or Avobenzone is a sun-protecting agent. It protects skin from UVA I and UVA II wavelengths (310-400 nm), and its peak is 357nm. It's not a stable sunscreen, so we use it with other chemical sunscreens. Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid is a sun-protecting ingredient. It protects skin from UVB radiation (280-320nm), but its peak of protection is around 306 nm. Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol sounds a bit like a magic spell. You might know it as a Tinosorb M - a new generation of sun-protecting agents. Tinosorb M is a broad-spectrum filter since it covers UVA and UVB wavelengths (280-400nm). It's a so-called hybrid sunscreen agent because it's between mineral and chemical sunscreen agents. It might leave some white cast.
Silica is a mineral, a natural ingredient. It's popular in makeup and skincare. It can absorb sebum or thicken the texture. Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate or Uvinul A Plus is a sun-protecting agent. It covers the UVA range (320-400 nm), and its peak of protection is 354 nm. Cetearyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. In the beauty industry, it serves as an emollient. Many people associate alcohol with something awful for the epidermis, but not every alcohol is nasty. Cetearyl alcohol leaves a moisturizing film on the skin to prevent your skin from transepidermal water loss (TEWL). We use Cetearyl alcohol to create an emulsion.
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer is a polymer that works as an emulsifier and thickener. Tocopherol is an antioxidant known as Vitamin E. It's an oil-soluble vitamin that fights free radicals and makes UVB protection and natural lipid barrier stronger. It's good to mix it with vitamin C for better effects. Oily skin might react with pore-clogging to vitamin E. It is not true that vitamin E works as a preservative or helps with scars. Butylene Glycol is a common ingredient in products. It's not only a solvent. We use butylene glycol because it helps the active ingredients penetrate, protects products from drying, and moisturises the skin and hair. This ingredient can prevent hair loss and strengthen hair.
Lauroyl Lysine helps create the texture. It makes hair and skin soft. Acne-prone skin might not enjoy it. Phenoxyethanol is a preservative that lots of people try to demonise. The truth is that Phenoxyethanol is gentle on the skin and has antiseptic properties. Sodium Hydroxide is a pH adjuster. Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate is an emulsifier. Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate is an oil-in-water emulsifier. Hydroxyacetophenone is an antioxidant that is supposed to help preservatives in the formula. Cetearyl Glucoside is an emulsifier. It can be synthetic, or it can come from coconut. Cellulose is a natural polymer that works as a thickener and sebum absorbent.
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate neutralises metal ions in the product. Xanthan Gum is a polysaccharide that works as a thickener. Inulin Lauryl Carbamate is an emulsifier. Sorbitan Isostearate is an emulsifier. Polysorbate 60 is a nonionic surfactant. It's also an oil-in-water emulsifier. Carbomer is a synthetic thickener. Sodium Lactate regulates the pH of the product, but it also helps with the moisture of the skin. Polysorbate 20 is an emulsifier that is gentle for the skin. Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 is a synthetic peptide and a part of Matrixyl 300 complex. It contains three amino acids - glycine, histidine and lysine. It stimulates collagen production and has anti-aging properties. It targets wrinkles and skin elasticity. Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 boosts collagen, elastin and HA synthesis.
How does Kiehl's Better Screen™ UV Serum work?
This sunscreen season isn’t as crazy as last year, because in Kbeauty, I don’t notice that many new sunscreens, although there are some unusual sunscreens which I will try to order and test for you. This year, Western brands are more surprising for me, and originally I didn’t plan to test Kiehl's Better Screen™ UV Serum, but I got it from L’Oréal. I know that Korean or Japanese sunscreens are hard to get, so I plan to share with you some of my sunscreen picks that are available in Europe. The more complicated issue is with US sunscreens and Korean sunscreens formulated for the US market.
Back to Kiehl's Better Screen™ UV Serum. I was surprised that this sunscreen has information on PA, since that’s something brands usually don’t say in Europe. We use a different system, which I don’t like because it doesn’t tell anything. The PA system isn’t ideal, but I find it better and easier to understand for a customer, just like the SPF system.
Another thing that surprised me is the glass packaging. Kiehl's Better Screen™ UV Serum is a vegan-friendly product with no additional scent ingredients. It does contain alcohol, which many people might not enjoy, but it has its purpose. Some ingredients are soluble in water, in this case, brands have to use other ingredients like alcohol. The other thing is that alcohol helps with the transport of active ingredients. This means that alcohol isn’t always bad. The problem is with the amount. Thankfully, in Kiehl’s, the amount is not an issue.
The texture is elegant, but if you wear black clothes and you want to use this sunscreen on your hands, I recommend leaving your hands for 2-3 minutes in the air so the sunscreen can fully dry on your skin, because when this texture is wet, it can transfer a bit onto clothes. Still, on skin, Kiehl's Better Screen™ UV Serum doesn’t leave any white tint. It’s easy to blend the texture, and once it dries, this sunscreen leaves a delicate, velvet film on the skin. It adds a delicate glow to the skin at first, but I feel like with time, this glow is less visible, but that’s not an issue for me. I think oily and combo skin might enjoy it a lot. Even the brand itself recommends Better Screen™ UV Serum for acne-prone skin.
Kiehl's Better Screen™ UV Serum - The US Version
While checking Kiehl's Better Screen™ UV Serum, I found that this sunscreen is available in the US. Let’s start with what the ingredients look like.
ACTIVE INGREDIENTS: AVOBENZONE 3%, HOMOSALATE 7%, OCTISALATE 5%, OCTOCRYLENE 7%COSMETIC INGREDIENTS: WATER, GLYCERIN, C15-19 ALKANE, PROPANEDIOL, C12-22 ALKYL ACRYLATE/HYDROXYETHYLACRYLATE COPOLYMER, TOCOPHEROL, SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE, BUTYLENE GLYCOL, CETEARYL ALCOHOL, SCLEROTIUM GUM, HYDROXYACETOPHENONE, CAPRYLYL GLYCOL, SODIUM STARCH OCTENYLSUCCINATE, GLYCERYL STEARATE, JOJOBA ESTERS, HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED WAX, HYDROXYPROPYL STARCH PHOSPHATE, TRISODIUM ETHYLENEDIAMINE DISUCCINATE, CARBOMER, SODIUM LACTATE, SODIUM HYDROXIDE, POLYSORBATE 20, POLYGLYCERIN-3, PALMITOYL TRIPEPTIDE-1, PALMITOYL TETRAPEPTIDE-7
The main difference is in active ingredients, the ingredients used in the version that’s available outside the US are based on newer types of UV-protecting ingredients. Kiehl’s belongs to L’Oréal, a company that has some patented sunscreen ingredients, and you might like L’Oréal or not, but this company is focusing a lot on research and creating new, better sunscreen agents. The problem with sunscreens in the US is the regulations. FDA stands for Food and Drug Administration. The FDA regulates what ingredients can be used in sunscreens and what can be promoted on the label. That's important, but as far as I know, the FDA hasn't approved any new sun-protecting ingredient since the 1990s. Some sunscreens used in the US are banned in other parts of the world.
You can see that the ingredients in this formula are different, too. The main ones, like fractions of peptides, are the same, but this formula has sunflower oil and jojoba esters. I have no idea how this formula works, because different ingredients are reacting differently. So keep that in mind while ordering the US version. Kiehl's Better Screen™ UV Serum in the US. What matters the most is that Kiehl's Better Screen™ UV Serum is a broad-spectrum sunscreen.
Where can I get Kiehl's Better Screen™ UV Serum, and how much does it cost?
Kiehl's Better Screen™ UV Serum is available on Kiehl’s official websites. 50ml bottle costs $45, £42 or €39. Links to both versions you can find on my ShopMy shelf* for sunscreens.
Overall, this can be a great sunscreen. Keep in mind that the US version is a bit different and might not work the same. Let me know which version you used and what your opinion on it is.
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