PDRN is still trending, and it looks like this ingredient won't be dethroned anytime soon. It's no surprise that the market is full of products like the P.CALM Active PDRN 50000 Rejuvenating Cream. But is it a hit or a miss? And is it worth adding to your cart if you're shopping for a PDRN cream.
Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links (marked with *).The products featured in this post were gifted by YesStyle, but all opinions expressed are my own.
What’s PDRN?
PDRN is an abbreviation for polydeoxyribonucleotide. It started becoming a popular K-beauty ingredient in 2024, but it's definitely not a new ingredient. Research into DNA- and nucleic-acid-based tissue repair dates back several decades, although the materials studied in earlier research were not necessarily what we would call PDRN today, and they were not necessarily derived from salmon. Research involving placenta-derived nucleic acids also predates the modern use of salmon-derived PDRN. The first commercially developed PDRN-based treatment was Placentex®, developed by the Italian company Mastelli and first authorized in 1994. It was based on PDRN extracted from human placenta and was originally used as an injectable treatment for tissue repair. PDRN was studied for its potential to support tissue repair and wound healing, and by 1996, the term PDRN was already being used in scientific literature. Some sources also mention research into PDRN or related nucleic-acid preparations for treating tissue damage following the Chernobyl disaster in 1986.PDRN consists of DNA fragments, typically ranging from around 50 to 1,500 kDa, and modern pharmaceutical PDRN is most commonly derived from the sperm of salmon or trout. PDRN can also be derived from other biological sources, including human placenta, although salmon-derived PDRN is now the most common source.
The reason why companies love PDRN is simple: it's an ingredient with a lot of potential. PDRN has been studied for its ability to support tissue repair and wound healing, stimulate fibroblast proliferation, promote angiogenesis, and regulate inflammatory responses. One of the mechanisms that makes PDRN particularly interesting is its interaction with A2A adenosine receptors. Activation of these receptors can promote processes involved in tissue repair, including angiogenesis - the formation of new blood vessels from existing ones. PDRN has also been associated with increased fibroblast activity and collagen synthesis, as well as anti-inflammatory effects.
PDRN sounds impressive, but we have to remember that before it became popular in skincare, it was primarily used in medical applications, including injectable treatments. PDRN in skincare has some important limitations, and one of the biggest is the size of the molecules. With molecular weights of approximately 50–1,500 kDa, PDRN is relatively large, which raises questions about how effectively it can penetrate intact skin when applied topically. This is also why we shouldn't automatically assume that the results seen with injectable PDRN will be replicated by a PDRN-containing serum or cream.
Is PDRN vegan?
Since PDRN is traditionally derived from salmon sperm, conventional PDRN isn't vegan-friendly. So, are brands promoting vegan PDRN scamming us? No, they aren't. PDRN-like ingredients can also be derived from plants. For example, VT's PDRN Essence 100* uses PDRN derived from ginseng, while Innisfree uses Green Tea PDRN™ in its Retinol Green Tea PDRN Skin Booster Ampoule*.
If you're worried that vegan PDRN automatically means a less effective ingredient, I don't think that's necessarily true. There is substantial research on ginseng and ginsenosides - the biologically active compounds found in ginseng - but plant-derived PDRN products shouldn't automatically be assumed to have exactly the same properties or clinical evidence as conventional animal-derived PDRN. The source of the DNA fragments and the way the ingredient is processed can affect their characteristics, so it's important to look at the evidence for the specific ingredient rather than assuming that all PDRN works in exactly the same way.
PDRN vs PN - what’s the difference?
PDRN stands for polydeoxyribonucleotide. It is a relatively low-molecular-weight DNA-derived ingredient, typically consisting of DNA fragments ranging from around 50 to 1,500 kDa, and is most commonly derived from salmon sperm. PDRN can interact with A2A adenosine receptors and has been studied for its potential to support tissue repair, wound healing, angiogenesis, and collagen production. However, because of its relatively large molecular size compared with the skin's natural barrier, PDRN does not easily penetrate intact skin, so its effectiveness in topical skincare may differ from that of injectable PDRN. PDRN can also be used in microneedling procedures, but only when the specific product is formulated and intended for professional use with microneedling. PDRN usually hides in ingredient list under the name Sodium PDRN.
PN stands for polynucleotide. It generally refers to longer DNA polymers with a higher molecular weight than PDRN, although there isn't a universally accepted molecular-weight cutoff that strictly separates PDRN from PN. PN contains longer DNA chains and has been studied for its ability to support tissue regeneration, stimulate fibroblast activity, improve skin elasticity, and reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and scars. PN is commonly used in injectable treatments, particularly in aesthetic medicine.
Is PDRN in cosmetics as good as injections?
PDRN in cosmetics won’t provide the same effects as injectable PN, but that doesn’t mean PDRN skincare is ineffective. PDRN can still be a beneficial ingredient for the skin, particularly for supporting hydration and the skin’s natural repair processes. However, topical PDRN should not be considered a substitute for injectable PN treatments, as the delivery method and the amount of ingredient reaching the target tissue are very different.
Meet the brand: P.Calm
P.CALM is a Korean skincare brand developed for sensitive and problematic skin. The brand focuses on gentle, barrier-supporting formulas designed to help calm irritation while maintaining healthy skin. Rather than relying on harsh treatments, P.CALM combines carefully selected ingredients with a minimalist approach, creating products suitable for reactive, acne-prone, and compromised skin. The brand is claiming to be vegan-friendly and cruelty-free, but I’m not 100% sure of that.
Interestingly, there are two commonly cited explanations for the origin of the brand's name. One says that P.CALM combines the French word peau ("skin") with "calm." The other explains that the "P" stands for pibu (피부), the Korean word for "skin," paired with "calm." Regardless of which interpretation is intended, both reflect the brand's philosophy of creating skincare that soothes and supports sensitive skin.
P.CALM Active PDRN 50000 Rejuvenating Cream
P.Calm Active PDRN 50000 Rejuvenating Cream is a moisturizer formulated with salmon-derived PDRN and EGF (Epidermal Growth Factor). It's a repairing cream designed for sensitive skin, helping to soothe stressed skin and support a weakened skin barrier.
P.CALM Active PDRN 50000 Rejuvenating Cream - Packaging
P.CALM Active PDRN 50000 Rejuvenating Cream comes in a slim paper box with both Korean and English text, which was a nice surprise. Inside, you'll find a plastic tube with a narrow applicator tip that makes it easy to dispense a precise amount of product.
P.CALM Active PDRN 50000 Rejuvenating Cream - Texture & Scent
It's a lightweight cream that, in theory, should be very moisturizing, but in practice, it isn't as hydrating as I expected. I really wanted to love this product, but the scent of P.CALM Active PDRN 50000 Rejuvenating Cream reminds me of alginate, and I find it quite unpleasant. The only upside is that it's a natural scent, as the formula doesn't contain any added fragrance.
Is P.CALM Active PDRN 50000 Rejuvenating Cream vegan/vegetarian-friendly or cruelty-free?
Although P.CALM describes itself as a cruelty-free and vegan-friendly brand, the P.CALM Active PDRN 50000 Rejuvenating Cream contains salmon-derived PDRN, making this particular product unsuitable for vegans and vegetarians.
P.CALM Active PDRN 50000 Rejuvenating Cream
Water, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Dna, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Methylpropanediol, Cetearyl Alcohol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Methyl Hydrogenated Rosinate, Glycerin, Cetearyl Glucoside, Behenyl Alcohol, Sodium Polyacrylate, Panthenol, SH-Oligopeptide-1, Centella Asiatica Extract, Sodium Guaiazulene Sulfonate, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Oil, Sclerotium Gum, Trehalose, Microcrystalline Wax, Polysorbate 60, Caprylyl Glycol, Adenosine, Disodium EDTA, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Dimethicone, Glyceryl Stearate, C18-21 Alkane, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Sodium Phosphate, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Water is typically listed in cosmetic products as "Aqua" or "Eau". It acts as a solvent, but it is not the same as ordinary drinking water. In skincare products, water must meet strict purity standards to ensure it is free from impurities, including minerals, microorganisms, and other contaminants. In most formulations, water makes up the largest proportion of the product. Butylene Glycol is a multifunctional ingredient commonly used in skincare and haircare products. It acts as a solvent and humectant, helping to dissolve ingredients while attracting moisture to the skin and hair. It can also enhance the penetration of active ingredients, improve a product's texture, and prevent formulations from drying out.
Sodium DNA (Sodium Deoxyribonucleate) is an ingredient closely related to the popular skincare ingredient PDRN (Polydeoxyribonucleotide). It is a DNA-derived ingredient commonly obtained from fish sources, such as salmon or trout. It is known for its skin-conditioning properties and is believed to support skin repair, regeneration, and hydration. However, it is important to remember that topical Sodium DNA in skincare products will not provide the same effects as PDRN injections used in aesthetic treatments. While the ingredient is promising and may help improve the skin's overall condition, its effects are limited by its ability to penetrate the skin.
Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate is an emollient that helps create a smooth, moisturizing film on the skin. It is a rich, long-lasting ingredient, so it may feel too heavy for some people with oily or acne-prone skin. Methylpropanediol is a synthetic solvent that helps dissolve other ingredients and improve the texture and spreadability of cosmetic formulations. It also has antimicrobial properties, which can support the preservation system of a product. Cetearyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. In the beauty industry, it is mainly used as an emollient, emulsifier, and thickening agent. Many people associate the word “alcohol” with ingredients that can be drying or irritating to the skin, but not all alcohols are the same. Cetearyl Alcohol helps soften and condition the skin and can form a film that helps reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL). It is also commonly used to create and stabilize emulsions.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic solvent and preservative booster. It helps protect products from microorganisms by enhancing the effectiveness of other preservatives. It also has humectant properties, helping to keep the skin hydrated, and is generally well tolerated by the skin. Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3, a water-soluble vitamin. It helps address issues such as wrinkles, acne, uneven skin texture, and enlarged pores, while promoting collagen synthesis. Niacinamide makes the skin barrier stronger. It might be handy in cellulite treatments. Do you want to fight pigmentation or uneven skin? Try mixing niacinamide with Kojic Acid, Arbutin, Vitamin C, Tranexamic Acid, or Retinol.
Methyl Hydrogenated Rosinate is a film-forming emollient that helps create a smooth film on the skin. It can also contribute to the texture and consistency of cosmetic formulations. Glycerin, also known as Glycerol, is a humectant that helps attract and retain moisture in the skin. Depending on the product, it can be derived from natural sources or produced synthetically. It helps protect the skin from TEWL (transepidermal water loss), a natural process in which water evaporates from the skin's surface. Glycerin is one of the components of the NMF (Natural Moisturizing Factor), which plays an important role in maintaining skin hydration. It is also widely used in hair care products due to its moisturizing properties. Glycerin is generally considered non-comedogenic and is unlikely to clog pores. Rather than irritating the skin, it can help support the skin barrier and reduce the feeling of dryness and irritation.
Cetearyl Glucoside is an emulsifier that helps blend oil and water-based ingredients in cosmetic formulations. It can be derived from plant-based sources, such as coconut and other vegetable oils, or produced from other sources. Behenyl Alcohol might sound intimidating, but it is actually a fatty alcohol. Unlike drying alcohols, fatty alcohols can be beneficial for the skin. Behenyl Alcohol acts as an emollient, helping to soften and smooth the skin while also improving the texture and consistency of the product. Sodium Polyacrylate is a thickening and stabilizing ingredient with a strong water-binding and water-absorbing capacity. It helps improve the texture and consistency of cosmetic formulations and can also form a film on the skin that helps reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
Panthenol, also known as vitamin B5, is a humectant that helps retain moisture and reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL). It has soothing and anti-inflammatory properties, supporting the skin barrier and helping with irritation and the healing process. It is especially useful for sensitive or damaged skin, including after sun exposure. In haircare, panthenol helps hydrate, soften, and improve hair manageability. sh-Oligopeptide-1, also known as Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF), is a signaling protein that promotes cell proliferation and supports tissue regeneration. In skincare, it is used to support the skin’s natural repair processes and help improve the appearance of skin texture and signs of aging. Its effects depend on the formulation, concentration, and ability of the ingredient to reach its target in the skin.
Centella Asiatica Extract is one of the most popular botanical ingredients in skincare. Also known as Asiatic pennywort, tiger grass, or Gotu kola, this plant is valued for its high content of triterpene saponins, including madecassoside and asiaticoside. Centella asiatica has soothing, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties, making it especially beneficial for sensitive, irritated, or acne-prone skin. It supports the skin’s natural healing process, may stimulate collagen production, and can help improve skin hydration by supporting hyaluronic acid synthesis. It is also commonly used in products targeting rosacea and skin barrier concerns.
Sodium Guaiazulene Sulfonate is a water-soluble derivative of guaiazulene, a compound associated with chamomile. It has soothing and anti-inflammatory properties and is commonly used in skincare to help calm irritated or sensitive skin. Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside is a mild non-ionic surfactant and stabilizer commonly used in skincare formulations. It helps cleanse the skin by allowing oil and water-based ingredients to mix while also improving the texture and stability of products. Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer is a synthetic polymer that acts as a humectant by helping to attract and retain moisture in the skin. It also forms a lightweight film on the skin, which helps reduce water loss and provides a smooth, hydrated feel.
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil is a source of linoleic acid and vitamin E. It works as an emollient, helping to soften and smooth the skin while supporting the skin barrier. It is also commonly used as a carrier oil for other oil-soluble ingredients. Thanks to its high linoleic acid content, sunflower seed oil may help reduce inflammation and support a healthy skin barrier. In hair care, it can be suitable for different hair porosities, although its lightweight texture and high linoleic acid content often make it especially well-suited for low- to medium-porosity hair. Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate is a probiotic-derived ingredient used in skincare. Ferments have become popular in recent years because of their potential benefits for sensitive and compromised skin. This ingredient helps soothe the skin and supports a healthy skin microbiome.
Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Oil is a soothing essential oil derived from chamomile. It contains compounds such as bisabolol and chamazulene, as well as other volatile constituents. Sclerotium Gum is a polysaccharide produced through the fermentation of Sclerotium rolfsii. It is primarily used as a thickening and stabilizing agent in skincare formulations and can also help form a film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Trehalose is a naturally occurring disaccharide (sugar) with strong water-binding properties. Like other sugars, it acts as a humectant, helping attract and retain water in the skin. It can help support skin hydration and function similarly to components of the Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF), which helps maintain the skin's moisture balance. Trehalose can also help protect skin cells from dehydration and environmental stress, making it a useful ingredient in hydrating and barrier-supportive formulations.
Microcrystalline Wax is a mineral wax derived from petroleum that acts as an emollient and texture-enhancing ingredient. It helps soften and smooth the skin while forming a protective barrier that helps reduce moisture loss and maintain skin hydration. It is also commonly used to improve the consistency, stability, and spreadability of cosmetic formulations. Polysorbate 60 is a nonionic surfactant and an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsifier. It helps disperse and stabilize oil-based ingredients in water-based formulations, contributing to the stability and consistency of emulsions.
Caprylyl Glycol is a multifunctional ingredient with emollient and humectant properties. It helps keep the skin hydrated, improves the texture and feel of cosmetic formulations, and can contribute to a smooth, soft finish on the skin. Adenosine naturally occurs in the skin and plays several roles in the body, including acting as a neurotransmitter. In skincare, it is valued for its anti-wrinkle and soothing properties. Adenosine has anti-inflammatory benefits, may support collagen production, and can help improve the appearance of fine lines, redness, and irritation. In hair care, adenosine is used in products designed to support hair growth and help reduce hair loss.
Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent that neutralizes metal ions, preventing them from destabilizing the formula or accelerating oxidation. This helps maintain the product's stability, effectiveness, and shelf life. Ethylhexylglycerin is a multifunctional ingredient used as a preservative and preservative booster in cosmetic formulations. It has mild moisturizing and antimicrobial properties, helping to keep products stable while supporting the effectiveness of other preservatives. Hydrogenated Polydecene is an emollient that leaves a silky, lightweight, non-occlusive film on the skin. It helps soften and smooth the skin without feeling heavy or greasy, making it a suitable ingredient for sensitive skin.
Dimethicone is a silicone-based polymer that helps smooth and soften the skin while creating a protective barrier that reduces moisture loss. Glyceryl Stearate is an emollient with emulsifying properties. It helps soften and smooth the skin while also helping to stabilize cosmetic formulations. C18-21 Alkane is a solvent that helps dissolve other ingredients and can also contribute to the texture and spreadability of a cosmetic formulation.
Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate is an emulsifier and nonionic surfactant that helps combine and stabilize oil- and water-based ingredients in cosmetic formulations. It can also act as a solubilizer and help improve the texture of the formula. Hydrogenated Lecithin is a version of lecithin. It works as an emollient in the formulas. Sodium Phosphate is a buffering agent that helps adjust and maintain the pH of cosmetic formulations. Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate is a synthetic polymer used primarily as a thickening, stabilizing, and emulsifying ingredient in cosmetic formulations. It helps improve the texture and consistency of the product and can help stabilize emulsions.
How to use P.CALM Active PDRN 50000 Rejuvenating Cream?
P.CALM Active PDRN 50000 Rejuvenating Cream should be applied as the last step of your evening routine. In the morning, apply it after your serum or ampoule and before sunscreen. The brand also recommends applying an extra layer to areas that feel especially dry
You don't have to use it all over your face - the narrow applicator tip makes it easy to use P.CALM Active PDRN 50000 Rejuvenating Cream as a targeted treatment for dry patches and wrinkles.
How does P.CALM Active PDRN 50000 Rejuvenating Cream work?
I have very mixed feelings about P.CALM Active PDRN 50000 Rejuvenating Cream, and I’m going to say that right at the beginning of this review. I’ve tried this brand before, and while some of its products are nice, others simply didn’t work for my skin. And that’s totally okay - not every skincare product works for everyone. However, when a brand says it’s cruelty-free and vegan-friendly, I expect it to stick to those claims as a customer. So, my first problem with this cream is the PDRN.
PDRN is normally derived from salmon or trout, and according to the promotional materials shared by P.CALM, the brand uses a high concentration of salmon-derived PDRN, providing 5% PDRN. That’s a really nice amount, but it’s not like vegan alternatives don’t exist. Some brands use ginseng-derived PDRN alternatives, while others use rose-derived PDRN or other plant-based alternatives. Speaking of the promotional materials, though - is the difference really visible after four hours? My skin would definitely complain.
I had very high expectations for P.CALM because this cream contains EGF, an ingredient I really like. I was hoping it could be a dupe for Arztin Regenerative Schild Cream, which is quite difficult to get but is such a good product. Add Dex-Panthenol and Cica, and it sounds like a great moisturizer. I have combination skin that leans more oily than dry, so I don’t need a lot of hydration. Yet somehow, this cream makes my skin feel dry. At first, it feels nice, and I can even use it under makeup. But when I apply it as part of my evening routine, my skin becomes noticeably dry. I honestly have no idea what’s wrong with this cream. I use moisturizing serums underneath it, but the result is still almost the same as if I had applied it to completely dry skin.
I’m almost glad that this cream doesn’t moisturize my skin well, because the scent of P.CALM Active PDRN 50000 Rejuvenating Cream is something I really can’t stand. I’ve already checked some opinions online, and it looks like I’m not the only one who has complained about the scent.
Overall, I’m honestly disappointed by this cream. Maybe oily skin could benefit from it, but based on my experience, I wouldn’t recommend it for dry skin. If it didn’t provide enough moisture for my combination skin, I can’t imagine it being particularly helpful for genuinely dry skin.
P.CALM Active PDRN 50000 Rejuvenating Cream - Skin Compatibility
P.CALM Active PDRN 50000 Rejuvenating Cream should be suitable for all skin types, especially skin with a weakened skin barrier. However, in my opinion, it may work best for oily skin.
P.CALM Active PDRN 50000 Rejuvenating Cream - Pros & Cons
PROS
+ Contains 50,000 ppm salmon-derived PDRN
+ Contains EGF, panthenol, Centella Asiatica, and adenosine
+ Lightweight texture
+ Narrow applicator makes targeted application easy
+ No added fragrance
CONS
- Not vegan or vegetarian due to salmon-derived PDRN
- Not as moisturizing as expected
- Unpleasant natural scent
- May not be moisturizing enough for dry skin
- The skincare benefits may not live up to the impressive PDRN/EGF claims
P.CALM Active PDRN 50000 Rejuvenating Cream - Alternatives
With so many PDRN moisturizers appearing on the market, there are plenty of good alternatives to P.CALM Active PDRN 50000 Rejuvenating Cream. If you’re looking for a PDRN + EGF combination, RiRe PDRN Rejudin Cream* is an affordable alternative, although it contains only 1% PDRN.
Although Centellian24 Expert Madeca Cream Active Renew PDRN* doesn’t disclose the amount of PDRN, I tested it on my skin during the colder months, and it provided the perfect amount of moisture for me. Dr. Reju-All Advanced PDRN Rejuvenating Cream* is probably one of the most popular PDRN creams lately. It contains only 1,200 ppm of PDRN, but according to Dr. Reju-All, it offers high absorption efficiency. Dr. Althea PDRN Reju 5000 Cream* contains 5,000 ppm of PDRN, as well as panthenol and Cica, so it has some similarities to P.CALM.
The OG Rejuran Active Cream Enhanced* is formulated with c-PDRN®, which has smaller molecules and may be more easily absorbed by the skin. If you’re looking for something more pharmacy-grade, Rejuveon*, which uses high-purity PDRN, might be worth considering.
For a vegan-friendly alternative, SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella PDRN 1.5 Cream* combines an 8GF complex with 1.5% PDRN derived from plant-based biome sources. Another option is ISNTREE GIM PDRN Hydro Firming Cream*, which combines peptides with PDRN derived from Wando seaweed.
Where to buy P.CALM Active PDRN 50000 Rejuvenating Cream and how much does it cost?
I got P.CALM Active PDRN 50000 Rejuvenating Cream from YesStyle*. The 20 g tube costs around $24.41 at the regular price, but you can use my referral code BETWEENDOTS to save on your order.
Overall, this cream didn’t meet my expectations.
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