The power of Cica - Make P:Rem CicaPro Refresh Light Cream Review with Tonic15

Saturday 17 October 2020

Make P:Rem CicaPro Refresh Light Cream

There's one common mistake in treating post-acne pigmentation - using lightening products instead of focusing on calming the skin. K-beauty brand Make P:rem is unique in many ways - it mixes good ingredients and sustainability with a minimalistic design. Make P:Rem CicaPro Refresh Light Cream is a light cream based on powerful healing ingredients like Centella Asiatica. Thanks to Tonic15 - a Korean Skincare & Beauty store, we will look into this product bit deeper. 

About Make P:rem 

Make P:Rem is a South Korean skincare brand which in my opinion needs more attention! Especially lately, because the brand has many new products and lines like idebenone ampoule. The name Make P:Rem stands for Make, Pragmatism, and Remedy. The brand is focused on ingredients and sustainability. Make P:Rem is not only about creating amazing formulas for your skin, but they also donate to World Vision to help kids in about 100 countries. The brand itself has minimalistic or as some people say "lagom" vibe to the product. 

Make P:Rem CicaPro Refresh Light Cream

Make P:Rem CicaPro Refresh Light Cream - Packaging 

The packaging is minimalistic and modern. There's one thing I love about Make P:Rem, but I also find it very unique and rare to find - place where you can write down when was the first time you used the product so you can check later with PAO if your product is still fresh to use. The tube contains 50ml of product and PAO is 12 months. 

Make P:Rem CicaPro Refresh Light Cream

Make P:Rem CicaPro Refresh Light Cream - Scent & Texture 

The scent is bit herbal, but not very intensive. You won't feel it on the skin, and for me it was important. The texture is not a typical gel texture, but a light cream with green/blue undertone. This version is recommended for oily & acne-prone skin, but I feel like it's the ideal version for summer or autumn, and revitalizing version might be a perfect pick for winter. 

Make P:Rem CicaPro Refresh Light Cream

Make P:Rem CicaPro Refresh Light Cream - Ingredients 

Water, Glycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Hydrogenated Poly(c6-14 Olefin), Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydrogenated Polydecene, 1,2-hexanediol, Cyclohexasiloxane, Niacinamide, Vegetable Oil, Glyceryl Stearate, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Cornus Officinalis Fruit Extract, Dicaprylyl Ether, Lactobacillus Ferment, Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate, Algae Extract, Eclipta Prostrata Leaf Extract, Cetearyl Glucoside, Arctium Lappa Root Extract, Phellinus Linteus Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Tauratecopolymer, Centella Asiatica Extract, Ficus Carica (Fig) Fruit Extract, Bambusa Vulgaris Water, Betaine, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Root Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Extract, Cholesterol, Cellulose Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia (Bergamot) Fruit Oil, Fructooligosaccharides, Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Oil, Ceramide, Beta-glucan, Disodium Edta, Behenyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Madecassoside, Sodium Hyaluronate, Butylene Glycol, Citrus Nobilis (Mandarin Orange) Peel Oil, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Salvia Officinalis (Sage) Oil, Raffinose, Pogostemon Cablin Oil, Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil, Folic Acid, Dextrin, Pentylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Tromethamine, Panthenol, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 

Water is an ingredient which you can find in almost every product. Its purpose in products is easy - it's a solvent. Glycerin is one of the most popular humectants in skincare. There's a large number of myths around glycerin like it can clog your skin. It doesn't clog your pores, but too much glycerin can make a sticky layer on the epidermis and even make your skin dryer than before due to TEWL (Transepidermal Water Loss). Still, it's an ingredient which we want to see in formulas. Dipropylene Glycol is a solvent. Cetearyl Alcohol even if sounds bit scary, it's good alcohol. It's oil-soluble fatty alcohol. It's a superb emollient and emulsifier. Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin) is an emollient. Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is an emollient. It's a combination of coconut oil and glycerin which makes mild, gentle and delicate emollient. It thickens the formula, but it also makes skin feel smooth in touch. Hydrogenated Polydecene or Alphaflow, it's an emollient, and it's excellent for sensitive skin. It feels like 1,2-Hexanediol is everywhere, and it's not a surprise. Even if it's a solvent, it's also a moisturizer. 

Cyclohexasiloxane is silicone, but it's also an emollient. This silicone is a volatile silicone. What does that mean? Previously, when I made a review of one eye cream and some people said some inequitable words about me for promoting a cream with silicones and other ingredients they don't like to use due to problems with apps that help you analyze additives. Been then and I also was one of such people before due to my troubles with food (I can't eat processed food unless I want to feel like I'm dying entire week). Silicones are the ultimate pick for the skin since they work as occlusives - what they do is protect the skin from dehydration. Volatile silicones are evaporating from the epidermis. They won't get absorbed by the skin, that's why you shouldn't be scared. If you're hypersensitive, then the good news is that the chance of getting allergic reactions to silicones is ultra-tiny! Still, every skin reacts differently. I won't force you to use products with silicones - we live in free countries. No one decides for you what you should use. Niacinamide is a miracle ingredient. It does lots of great work. Do you have problems with dark spots? Try Niacinamide! Acne? Niacinamide will be an ideal pick for you too! Maybe you've got issues with skin barrier? Solve it with Niacinamide! Wrinkles? You might want to try Niacinamide as well. Sensitive skin might find Niacinamide bit problematic when it's mixed with Vitamin C or used in the same routine as Vitamin C. I can't deny Niacinamide is a skincare treasure! 

Make P:Rem CicaPro Refresh Light Cream

Glyceryl Stearate is an ester of Glycerin and Stearic Acid. It's an emollient and emulsifier, and you can find it in oil in water formulas. It's a superb ingredient, but in some solutions, Glyceryl Stearate is problematic for me since it feels like it clogs my skin, but just because I'm not a fan of it, it doesn't mean your skin won't like it. Every skin is different. Bifida Ferment Lysate is a fermented ingredient, a probiotic. It helps with skin irritation, and it might help with damage made by free radicals. Cornus Officinalis Fruit Extract derives from a medical plant. Some people call it Asiatic Dogwood or Japanese Cornel. In Korea, this tree has a name Sansuyu. It's an anti-inflammatory and skin brightening ingredient. Dicaprylyl Ether is a solvent. it gives your skin a light film on the surface, but it also helps with the application of the product. Lactobacillus Ferment is an ingredient which a few years ago was a cult ingredient. Nowadays, I feel like its popularity decreased after people started to self-diagnose themselves with so-called fungal acne. If you think that your skin problem might be related to Malassezia then instead of self-diagnose, visit a dermatologist. It's a probiotic, ideal for sensitive skin, but it also helps with acne. It makes your skin barrier stronger. Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate is what you get from the yeast fermentation process. It's a moisturizing and soothing formula that you can use with sensitive skin. 

Make P:Rem CicaPro Refresh Light Cream

Algae Extract is an emollient with moisturizing and anti-aging properties. It derivates from different types of algae. Eclipta Prostrata Leaf Extract or False Daisy is an extract with soothing and antioxidant properties. Eclipta Prostrata is a plant typical for Ayurveda. It's a source of flavonoids, triterpenes and lactones. This plant can also work as a blue pigment in both cosmetics or tattoos. Cetearyl Glucoside is an emulsifier. The next ingredient on the list is a plant which you probably know well if you have a garden. Arctium Lappa Root Extract or Burdock Root Extract has soothing and anti-inflammatory properties. Phellinus Linteus Extract's popularity might be bigger than you expect. It goes with different names like Sanghwand Mushroom, and it's an ingredient typical for Korean Traditional Medicine. It's a source of amino acids and polysaccharides. In skincare, we use it to target inflammation and weak skin barrier. Hydrogenated Lecithin is a version of lecithin. It's still an emulsifier but think of it as buying different versions of one smartphone. Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Tauratecopolymer or Sepinov EMT 10 is a thickener with emulsifying properties. 

Make P:Rem CicaPro Refresh Light Cream

Centella Asiatica Extract is an ingredient that stays in skincare trend. Lots of ingredients used in skincare have a long history of use in medicine. This ingredient isn't different because Centella is a part of Ayurveda, a traditional (or if you prefer - alternative) medicine used by people for ages. Nowadays we associate it with India. Centella is a herb primarily applied in skincare for its healing properties. It speeds up the healing process, and that's why acne-prone skin loves it. If you're pregnant or you plan pregnancy, then try to find body care products with Centella Asiatica because it can have a valuable meaning on skin elasticity as well as stretch marks. Ficus Carica (Fig) Fruit Extract is an antioxidant. Betaine derives from sugar beets. It's an amino acid that keeps your skin moist, and you might want to use it in your haircare routine. Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract - you probably know Melia Azadirachta as Neem or Chinaberry. It's a flower extract of a plant typical for India, Sri Lanka or Pakistan. Neem comes from Ayurveda, and in this case, it's a pigment. Next on the list is Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, and in this case, it has antiseptic, antibacterial and antifungal properties. 

Make P:Rem CicaPro Refresh Light Cream

Turmeric in products for acne skin is not a surprise for me, but what does Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Root Extract do in other products? Turmeric has wide use in traditional medicine - not only Ayurveda but Chinese Traditional Medicine. It's an antioxidant with anti-inflammatory properties, that's why it works so good on acne. It might help with pigmentation, but if you have post-acne inflammation, then using soothing ingredients and substances that speed up wound healing helps with redness left after acne. Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract aka Holy Basil is a source of eugenol, linalool, rosmarinic acid, oleanolic acid, ursolic acid, rosmarinic acid and more. It's another ingredient used in traditional medicine. In skincare products, Holy Basil has anti-inflammatory effects. Algae in beauty exist in many different forms. Corallina Officinalis Extract is an antioxidant and colourant. Cholesterol is an ingredient which we associate with health. We talk a lot about good and bad cholesterol, but do you know that cholesterol has a vast meaning for your skin? It's a lipid which you can find in the skin barrier. It makes skin barrier stronger and prevents your skin from irritation and dehydration. In a product, it's an emollient. 

Adenosine is another elegant ingredient. It speeds up the healing process and repairs the skin barrier. It's ideal for inflamed skin, and it might have a positive effect on skin elasticity. Citrus Aurantium Bergamia (Bergamot) Fruit Oil is an essential oil. It's a phototoxic substance that's why you shouldn't use it if you plan to sunbathe. I would recommend being careful with this substance during the summer. It might have a pleasant scent, but some people are allergic to it, and if you're pregnant - it's good to avoid it. Fructooligosaccharides is an ingredient which I didn't assume it's a thing in skincare. Fructooligosaccharides is a moisturizing prebiotic. Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil or Rose Geranium Flower Essential Oil is an essential oil, which means it might be sensitizing for your skin. Pelargonium graveolens is a flower typical for South Africa. You can usually find it in perfumes, aromatherapy or skincare, as a scent ingredient. Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Oil is an essential oil. It gives a pleasant scent to the product. 

Make P:Rem CicaPro Refresh Light Cream

Ceramide is an ingredient which we want to see in our products. Ceramides naturally occur in human skin, and they have a dominant role. You can find them in the lipid barrier of the skin along with cholesterol and fatty acids. Ceramide is like a cement of the skin. It makes sure that your skin won't get dehydrated. Beta-glucan derives from yeast, mushroom (like Chaga or shiitake), seaweed or cereals (oat, wheat, barley). To me, Beta-Glucan smells like wine. Beta-glucan is a stunning humectant with soothing properties. It's great for sensitive skin. Behenyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol, but also a good emulsifier and emollient. Cetearyl Olivate and Sorbitan Olivate are nothing else than Olivem 1000 - a natural emulsifier. Madecassoside is an active compound of famous K-beauty ingredient - Centella Asiatica. It is not a surprise why Madecassoside, as well as Gotu Kola, are so common in skincare - they have wound healing properties. The boosts healing process which makes them ideal for acne-prone, sensitive or inflamed skin. Madecassoside is an antioxidant which you have to try! Sodium Hyaluronate is a salt form of a popular Natural Moisturizing Factor - Hyaluronic Acid. Butylene Glycol is a moisturizer and solvent, but it's also alcohol. You see, not every alcohol in skincare is terrible. Some of them have positive effects on your skin - just like Butylene Glycol, which is a popular substance even in eco/green cosmetic products. 

Make P:Rem CicaPro Refresh Light Cream

Citrus Nobilis (Mandarin Orange) Peel Oil is not a surprise - it's another essential oil. It derives from mandarin orange, and it gives a scent to the product. Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid is a low weight humectant. It's a form of natural moisturizing factor that occurs in our skin - Hyaluronic Acid. The smaller the molecule is, the better it works. Salvia Officinalis (Sage) Oil is an essential oil which acne-prone skin might like. Raffinose is a moisturizer. Pogostemon Cablin Oil or Patchouli Essential Oil is a scent ingredient, but it also has anti-fungal properties. Caprylyl Glycol is a moisturizer and an oily emollient. It leaves a delicate, protective film on your skin. But that's not all, Caprylyl Glycol is useful when you want to keep your product free from unfriendly stuff like microbes. Panthenol is nothing else than Pro-vitamin B5, a soothing moisturizer with positive meaning to the skin barrier. It speeds up the healing process. Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 or Matrixyl. It helps with wrinkles and fine lines. It might be an impressive substitute for retinol with fewer side effects. 

Make P:Rem CicaPro Refresh Light Cream

How does Make P:Rem CicaPro Refresh Light Cream work? 

My choice was between two different products - Make P:Rem Cicapro Revitalizing Cream or Make P:Rem Cicapro Refresh Light Cream. The reason why I went for Refresh version is easy - this version is recommended for all skin types, especially acne-prone & oily skin. I wrote that before, but I like to say one thing a few times so everyone will get this information straight. Make P:rem is a brand which I wanted to try for a long time. I had sunscreen from this brand before, and I enjoyed it. Make P:rem is still quite unknown skincare brand for many. Cica is everywhere now, we can say we have small Cica cult in skincare. During my practice as an esthetician, I had lots of cases of people coming for pigmentation treatment. The problem is that pigmentation is a wide term. Majority of people self-diagnose their pigmentation as hyperpigmentation, especially post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, while I'm pretty sure some part of these cases might be diagnosed as post-inflammatory erythema. Both these cases need a different weapon. While in hyperpigmentation we would look at tyrosinase inhibitors, the inflammation needs different substances - we have to focus on healing properties and that's why Centella Asiatica is a good choice to 'cure' acne. 

Make P:Rem CicaPro Refresh Light Cream

Make P:Rem CicaPro Refresh Light Cream is a cream that contains Centella Asiatica in a few forms - Centella Extract, but Madecassoside have the same origin - Centella! The formula itself is powerful, but the texture is what oily skin needs - especially during summer or even autumn. I started to test Make P:Rem CicaPro Refresh Light Cream during the summer. The texture is not oily, even if we have many oils in the product - one oil is very significant for acne-prone skin - sage oil. My skin is sensitive and if I have to choose a product with essential oils or without them, I prefer to go EO's free, this time I gave Make P:Rem a chance, and it was a good choice. The cream is delicate and lightweight, it might be not enough for dry skin during the cold months, but it will be beneficial for acne-prone skin. I still had to deal with acne, because let's be honest, acne is also about stress & emotions, diet, environment and other many parts, but the healing process is boosted thanks to ingredients which we can find in this moisturizer. It was easy to add Make P:Rem CicaPro Refresh Light Cream to my routine, especially when later I went all in Centella. A small amount is enough to cover your entire face and neck. The design that allows us to write down the opening date of the product is genius - it's something all products should have. In my opinion, Make P:Rem CicaPro Refresh Light Cream is a product worth a try - it won't make miracles, but the difference in my skin was visible, and it is visible now when I changed to a product that should do the same, has similar ingredients, but comes from a different brand. I'll tell you about it in a month or two - I might even make a comparison post of few cica creams to show you how different cica creams can be. 

Make P:Rem CicaPro Refresh Light Cream

Where to buy Make P:Rem CicaPro Refresh Light Cream? 

Make P:Rem CicaPro Refresh Light Cream is available on Tonic15 (£28/50ml). You can get 10% off on orders from Tonic15 with code Kherb

Meet Tonic15 

Tonic15 is a Korean skincare & beauty store from the UK. The motto of this shop is "Korean Beauty Made Simple", that's why you won't find there millions of brands, but curated brands and products such as I'm From, Make P:Rem, Sioris or By Wishtrend. Jin, founder of Tonic15 created a brand that is focused on balance and diversity. "15" - just like in brand's name Tonic15 - it takes only 15 minutes every day to improve your skin condition. I encourage you to check Tonic15 website - you'll see on your own how different it is from other European and non-European shops. This store offers not only UK & EU shipping, but also international shipping. 

I had a chance to work create a review of By Wishtrend Polyphenols in Propolis Ampoule review with Tonic15, and to this day this post is one of the most popular posts on Pinterest. 

To sum up, one ingredient in your skincare can make a huge change. Make P:Rem CicaPro Refresh Light Cream met my expectations and made me even more hungry for Make P:Rem products which are still rare in Europe. 

Have you ever tried Make P:Rem? What's your favourite Centella product?



*** This post was made in collaboration with Tonic15even though it still shows my personal opinion on the topic and product. This post contains affiliate links. ***

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